The Dominican Republic

Day 1: The tour begins this evening in Santo Domingo, capital of the Dominican Republic. Our hotel is situated close to the center of colonial Santo Domingo, and those who arrive early may wish to explore the many historic buildings and museums close by. We’ll start the first evening with dinner and a logistical meeting. We may have time to check a nearby roost of Hispaniolan Parakeets. Night in Santo Domingo.

Day 2: We’ll begin our first full day at the extensive and beautifully maintained botanical garden, centered on a densely forested canyon. A morning walk here provides an excellent introduction to the island’s birds. In addition to the ubiquitous Hispaniolan Woodpecker, we should find Vervain Hummingbird (ostensibly the world’s second-smallest bird), Antillean Palm-Swift, Red-legged Thrush, Black-crowned Palm-Tanager, and Hispaniolan Lizard-Cuckoo. We can also expect to see the bizarre Palmchat, in a family unto itself, which builds enormous communal nests in palm trees. With some luck, we may happen upon West Indian Whistling-Ducks, which can often be found along a small stream in the gardens. Upon leaving the gardens we’ll begin the drive eastward towards Sabana de la Mar, on the Bay of Samaná.  The hotel here is a real treat, with rushing streams all around the grounds, dried leaves impressed into the stucco walls, and wonderful patios. We will search this evening for the endemic Ashy-faced Owl. Night in Sabana de la Mar.

Day 3: In the early morning we plan to search for the critically endangered Ridgway’s Hawk. This formerly widespread species is now extremely local and infrequently seen. By this time of year, adults are usually engaged in nest building, and we hope to have a nest site pinned down. Getting there will likely involve a relatively short but sometimes steep and occasionally wet walk—well worth it for the chance of seeing this wonderful raptor at its nest! In the flowering trees nearby, we could see Hispaniolan Oriole, and we often encounter Ruddy Quail-Doves in the forest understory. If time and conditions allow, we may take a boat trip out into the bay and around the many limestone islets, stopping to look for West Indian Whistling-Ducks, White-crowned Pigeons, Hispaniolan Parrots, nesting Magnificent Frigatebirds, and various waterbirds. In the afternoon we’ll make our way back westward toward Santo Domingo for the evening. Night in Santo Domingo.

Day 4:  We’ll spend much of today traveling west across the country with a few stops for birds and scenic ocean views. Provided travel goes smoothly, we will do some birding near our accommodations in Pedernales in the evening hours. Night in Pedernales.

Day 5: Today we’ll focus on the south side of the Sierra de Bahoruco. Our morning will begin upslope on the paved Alcoa Road. Near the top of this old mining road we will be able to access an extensive upland pine forest. This forest is reminiscent of the longleaf pine forests of the southeastern United States, but here we’ll look for Hispaniolan Crossbill, Golden Swallow (now a Hispaniolan endemic as the population in Jamaica has disappeared), and Antillean Siskin. Hispaniolan Trogons are common in these forests. We’ll spend most of the morning in this rapidly declining habitat before heading to lunch. After lunch we’ll drive south stopping at Oviedo Lagoon, where we will take an hour-long boat trip out into the lagoon for close views of their resident American Flamingos, and a selection of breeding waterbirds and wintering waterfowl. We may also encounter Roseate Spoonbills, and a nice array of shorebirds and waders. Also here we hope to find Mangrove Cuckoos and “Golden” Yellow Warblers lurking in the mangroves. After the boat trip we’ll make our way to our lovely hotel for the evening. Night at Hotel Quemaito near Barahona.

Day 6: This morning we will rise very early and have breakfast on the go. We’ll ride in 4x4 vehicles upslope for our first exploration of the unique cloud forest habitat found in the highest elevations of the island. With luck we’ll find Eastern Chat-Tanager before lunch as well as encounter Bicknell’s Thrush on their wintering grounds. Many other island endemics utilize this habitat including both Narrow-billed and Broad-billed Tody, and Green-tailed Ground Tanager (formerly Warbler), amongst others. After a delicious morning of birding we’ll head to lunch in Barahona and continue our drive to Duverge for the evening. We are likely to go out for a bit of night birding despite an early wake-up tomorrow (optional). Possibilities include Least Pauraque, Ashy-faced Owl, “Northern” Potoo, and Chuck-will’s Widow. Night in Duverge.

Day 7: Today we’ll leave “dark and early” and head back into the high mountains of the south-central part of the island. We’ll ride for multiple hours in 4x4 vehicles to reach a remote section of Sierra de Bahoruco National Park at a site called Zapoten. This site is well known for being the most reliable site on the island for encountering La Selle Thrush, White-winged Warbler (not a Warbler), and Western Chat-Tanager. As we ascend, we’ll make a few pre-dawn stops looking and listening for Hispaniolan Nightjar, Least Pauraque and Northern Potoo. Our main target just after dawn will be the very local LaSelle Thrush, which lives in a beautiful but restricted patch of cloud forest. Other highlights may include Hispaniolan Emerald, Hispaniolan Parrot, Hispaniolan Trogon, Narrow-billed Tody, Green-tailed Ground Warbler, White-winged Warbler, Hispaniolan Spindalis, and Greater Antillean Bullfinch. After birding the high elevation broad-leaf forest we will head further uphill into the pines to look for Hispaniolan Crossbill and the insular subspecies of Pine Warbler. After a nice morning of birding, we’ll make our way back downslope for lower elevation species. Birding around Puerto Escondido may produce Stolid Flycatchers and Greater Antillean Bullfinches. In the dry scrubby forests downslope we should see Flat-billed Vireo. A nearby streamside trail will take us through an excellent patch of humid forest. Birds abound here, and we should see quite a few endemics and a nice array of migrants. With patience we can often locate Key West (and sometimes White-fronted) Quail-Doves walking on the forest floor upslope from the trail. The endemic and spectacular Bay-breasted Cuckoo occasionally puts in an appearance here as well. Night in Duverge.

Day 8: For our last morning we’ll start by cleaning up on any species we missed the day before near Puerto Escondido along the La Placa trail. We’ll have lunch and then drive down to Lago Enriquillo. Lying more than 120 feet below sea level, this intensely saline lake is the remnant of a channel that once divided Hispaniola into two islands. Our primary goal is Hispaniolan Palm Crow, but we may also see an interesting assortment of migrant warblers, lizards, and Plain Pigeon in the very bizarre cactus forest. After this we’ll make our way back to Santo Domingo for our farewell dinner. Night near the Santo Domingo Airport.

Day 9: The tour concludes this morning in Santo Domingo with transfers to the airport.

2024 Narrative

Day 1: We gathered this evening in the courtyard of our Santo Domingo hotel for an evening stroll through the heart of Zona Colonial for a tasty dinner together at El Buho Eatery. After delicious food and a welcome meeting we turned-in for a good night’s rest.

Day 2: Shortly after sunrise we gathered at the National Botanical Gardens for our first real taste of Hispaniolan bird life. As we enjoyed breakfast from the parking lot we watched a group of six Hispaniolan Woodpeckers moving about the treetops, their mechanical movements making them look like windup toys.

Nearby a flock of Hispaniolan Parakeets raced overhead while Antillean Palm Swifts flew in and out of the native Cana Palms (their favorite place to nest). The gardens could be renamed the National Palmchat Gardens as this endemic species is around every corner and in every palm tree. Throughout the morning we soaked up views of this endemic monotypic family, Dulidae, and we managed to see them everyday on the trip. The abundant flowers in the gardens attracted Hispaniolan Mangos and the bee-sized Vervain Hummingbirds for repetitive close views. These same flowers also hosted a Broad-billed Tody, one of everybody’s most wanted endemics.

The lush vegetation at the gardens offers great habitat for wintering Wood-Warblers and we enjoyed views of American Redstart, Northern Waterthrush, Ovenbird, as well as Black-and-White Warbler, Cape May, and Prairie Warblers. A Hispaniolan Lizard-Cuckoo bounced through the tangles giving short but satisfactory views.

A Black-crowned Palm-Tanager was an introduction to the endemic family of Hispaniolan tanagers, Phaenicophilidae. Stolid Flycatchers called mournfully from the trees nearby. A stream running through the gardens held two West Indian Whistling-Ducks, Common Gallinules with chicks, a Least Grebe, and one each of Spotted and Solitary sandpipers. From the gardens we pushed NE to the Bay of Samana in the karstic hills of northeastern Dominican Republic. We enjoyed lunch and a brief break before heading out for an evening boat trip through the nearby mangroves and incredible magotés (giant limestone pinnacles that rise out from the sea for hundreds of feet) of Haitises National Park. As we snaked through the mangroves along the Rio Cano Hondo we enjoyed close views of West Indian Whistling-Ducks, Little Blue Heron, and both flavors of Night-Herons.

Upon reaching the San Lorenzo Bay we encountered multiple large groups of Whistling-Ducks, totalling 82 individuals.

Nearby, a large mangrove-covered magote provided nesting habitat for Brown Pelicans and courting grounds for Great Egrets. After dinner we went for a walk amongst moonlit limestone cliffs, where we heard two Ashy-faced Owls, but were never able to get views of them. Along the trail we encountered a large Hispaniolan Boa Constrictor, a rarely seen endemic snake.

Day 3: We took an early morning hike to search for the highly endangered Ridgway’s Hawk, whose global population stronghold is here in Los Haitises NP. Along the walk we found several Louisiana Waterthrushes near the headwater of Rio Cano Hondo. A pair of Antillean Piculets flew back and forth across the trail, only stopping for very brief glimpses. In the open fields behind the lodge we watched three Ridgway’s Hawks - an adult and two subadults - flying circuits overhead in morning sunshine. After lunch we headed back to Santo Domingo for a bit of down time and a delicious dinner at Buche Perico in the colonial zone.

Day 4: Today was mostly a driving day but we enjoyed some nice birding at the Las Salinas salt pans and mangroves. At our first stop we watched as two Caribbean Clapper Rails crept through the mangroves at a close distance, stopping to preen and bath right before our eyes. Across the road we found a large group of Least Sandpipers with a lone Semipalmated Plover.

Two American Flamingos strained the waters of the lagoon. These magnificent birds were rescued from a nearby resort and were released here in hope that they’ll take up residence with the wild flock of flamingos and have a second chance at life after having their wings clipped and used as “live decoration” for beachside resorts. So far they’re keeping to themselves, but time will tell.

At the salt farm we enjoyed views of many shorebirds and terns including Royal, Sandwich, and Gull-billed terns. A giant feeding flock of waders consisted of Great, Snowy, and white morph Reddish egrets. A few Tricolored and Little Blue Herons worked the edges of the feeding frenzy. A Roseate Spoonbill sifted the waters in the back, while a flock of Stilt Sandpipers, both flavors of yellowlegs, and some Black-necked Stilts worked the front edge. A nearby mudflat held two White-rumpled Sandpipers (unexpected at this time of year), a small group of Ruddy Turnstones, and a Black-bellied Plover.

After lunch in Barahona, we finished the long drive to Pedernales, stopping for another early evening boat trip. Here at the Oviedo Lagoon, part of Jaragua National Park, we found large flocks of American Wigeons, a single pair of Blue-winged Teal, and scattered White-cheeked Pintails. American Flamingoes performed well, though their numbers were much lower than years past with no clear reason why. This continues to be a great place to find overwintering species from the North American continent.

A large group of Common Terns mixed with Royal Terns, and an immature Northern Harrier patrolled the shoreline. In the distance a group of three, small, dark terns hovered low over the surface of the water. They looked to be Black Terns, but views were distant so we moved in for a closer look; and to confirm there wasn’t a White-winged Tern hiding in there. Close views revealed three Black Terns, a rarity in Dominican Republic. After documenting our rare find we returned to shore and headed to Pedernales for the night.

Day 5: This morning was chilly high in the mountains above Pedernales. Along the drive we spotted two Hispaniolan Nightjars hunting the road in the van’s headlights. We stopped for a better view but they were shy and retreated to a nearby grove of trees where they sang incessantly. Shortly after sunrise we wandered downslope toward the sound of one of the favorite birds of the trip, a male Hispaniolan Trogon that sat beautifully in the understory of the Hispaniolan pine forest for all of us to admire.

A pair of Green-tailed Ground-Tanagers foraged in the shrubs along the edge of the road, at times approaching so close that our binoculars couldn’t focus on them.

Droves of Hispaniolan Parakeets passed by overhead. Further up the mountain, near the old bauxite mine, we watched six Golden Swallows carving circles out of the sky just overhead. Nearby a small group of Hispaniolan Crossbills called from the trees but they were deep enough into the forest that we couldn’t locate them - the wind didn’t help. Meanwhile, Hispaniolan Parrots and Hispaniolan Palm Crows passed by overhead. Back at the van the crows congregated overhead in the pines, providing great opportunities to study them and listen to their nasally calls. A nearby stock tank provided surface water to local wildlife and we watched Hispaniolan Mangoes chasing each other back and forth around the edges. Common Yellowthroats “smacked” from the reeds within.  A pair of Hispaniolan Euphonias called in the distance and then flew into a bit of play-back. These fabulously colored finches landed overhead as we were preparing to head downslope for a picnic. After said picnic lunch we retreated to the lowlands for the long drive to Hotel Quemaito, a beautiful hotel overlooking the Caribbean Sea from an oceanside bluff. It was here that we parted ways with Manny Jimenes, our local guide and co-owner of Explora EcoTours and said hello to Efrain, one of our local guide for the remainder of the trip.

Day 6: We rose early to enjoy some coffee and breakfast before birding. A short distance from the hotel we turned upslope toward the highland community of Cachote and bumped along in 4x4 vehicles for an hour or so, enjoying the sun rising over the mountains to the east. As we arrived at Cachote the cool morning air and wet vegetation was a stark contrast to the dry heat of the desert lowlands. Ramon, a local birder from the community greeted us. We followed Ramon through the cloud forest to an area where he’s been attracting Ruddy and White-fronted Quail-Doves to his chicken feeding station. Along the trail we had our first glimpses of Eastern Chat-Tanager, one of only two species in the Hispaniolan endemic family, Calyptophilidae. While working to get views of the Chat-Tanagers we were treated to eye level views of a Rufous-throated Solitaire as it sang its ethereal dawn song.

We observed the chicken feeding station for at least an hour, enjoying views of up to five Ruddy Quail-Doves, but sadly the White-fronted never appeared. After lunch we checked in at our accommodations in the town of Duverge and napped off the afternoon heat. In the evening we birded in a nearby agricultural community where we had wonderful views of Antillean Siskins and Hispaniolan Orioles.

A flock of neotropical migrants held American Redstarts and Northern Parulas, as well as Black-and-white, Prairie, Cape May, and Tennessee warblers. We returned to Duverge for dinner and called it an early evening.

Day 7: We departed at o’dark thirty, 3:30am to be precise, in order to make the long and bumpy journey to the highest reaches of Sierra de Bahoruco National Park. For three hours we endured horrendous road conditions in 4x4 vehicles to reach the cloud forest site known as Zapoten, one of the last large tracts of cloud forest on the island and a globally important site for endemic flora and fauna of the Caribbean. Here we found many of our remaining endemic bird targets including LaSelle Thrush which comes to the roadside right at sunrise and then retreats to the forest floor for the rest of the day. This bird is the main reason we have to leave so early in the morning.

Additionally we found Western Chat-Tanager, Hispaniolan Crossbill, Hispaniolan Emerald, Hispaniolan Spindalis, and White-winged Highland-Tanager. A couple lucky folks spotted a White-fronted Quail-Dove as it flushed from the edge of the trail.

Just before lunch we stopped at an overlook to take in the views of Haiti in the distance and we struck gold by finding a Bay-breasted Cuckoo on the adjacent hillside. We were treated to views of this rarity at eye-level for up to ten minutes as it hunted through the treetops, stopping occasionally to broadcast its bellowing calls through the forest. Bay-breasted Cuckoos are not only critically endangered but they’re also cryptic and very difficult to see, so this was a real treat and certainly a highlight of the trip.

The endemic birds of Hispaniola are always a treat to see, but so are the birds from continental North America that call this island their wintering grounds. A notable encounter of the morning was a Bicknell’s Thrush singing from the pre-dawn shadows. The highlands forests of the Dominican Republic are one of the only places this species is known to winter, making it of utmost importance to the conservation of this species.

Day 8: After breakfast we headed to the subtropical dry forest around Puerto Escondido to find our last remaining endemic bird of the Dominican Republic, the Flat-billed Vireo, which we found without issue at our first stop. From here we made our way to the shores of Lago Enriquillo, a hyper saline lake that was a shallow ocean channel flanked by coral reefs only 6,000 years ago, dividing the island of Hispaniola into a north and south Islands. In the desert around the edges of the lake we found multiple Ricord’s Rock Iguanas, a critically endangered lizard whose numbers teeter around 2,500 wild individuals. The holes dug by the iguanas provide important shelters and nesting sites for the endemic Guadalupensis subspecies of Burrowing Owl, which watched us intently as we maneuvered the cactus laden scrub in search of iguanas.

After lunch we said our goodbyes to Efrain and returned to Santo Domingo for our final dinner to celebrate finding all of the endemic species of Dominican Republic and to prepare for our flights home the next day.

eBird Trip Report: https://ebird.org/tripreport/207724

                                                                                                                                                                           - Raymond VanBuskirk

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