Day 1: The tour begins mid-afternoon at Trinidad’s Piarco International Airport, where you will be met and transferred to our hotel in Talparo, on the rainforest’s edge. Nestled within a lush garden, this will be our base for our first two nights in Trinidad. Night near Talparo.

Day 2: We’ll kick off the birding with a visit to the verdant Maracas Valley. Known as the hummingbird mecca of Trinidad, we may see up to 14 species of hummingbirds up close as we explore the tropical garden, which hosts delights such as the ornate Tufted Coquette, the stunning Ruby-topaz Hummingbird, and the distinct White-necked Jacobin.

Following lunch, we’ll take a very short drive over to the world-renowned Caroni Swamp, the second-largest mangrove wetland in Trinidad & Tobago. Transferring into a private flat-bottomed boat,we will delve into the heart of the spectacular mangrove forests. Snaking through narrow watercourses among these tranquil and tangled mangroves, we’ll look for Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Silvered Antbird, Black-crested Antshrike, American Pygmy and Green Kingfishers, and Herons of every possible description. In the skies above, we may be treated to a selection of Trinidad’s extensive variety of raptors including Short-tailed Hawks, Long-winged Harriers, Plumbeous Kites, Gray-lined Hawks, and Bat Falcons. We may even spot a sleeping Silky Anteater coiled up on a branch along the way.

When the sun begins to dip lower in the sky, we’ll emerge out into an open expanse of water, greeted by the sight of dozens of American Flamingos feeding. Cattle, Great and Snowy Egrets, along with Tricolored Herons and Little Blue Herons arrive and proceed to decorate the emerald-colored mangrove islands.

As evening sets in, we’ll be in a great place to witness one of Trinidad’s famous natural spectacles: the flight of Scarlet Ibis, herons, and egrets, thousands strong, coming to roost in the mangroves of Caroni. We’ll enjoy dinner on a private cruise through the swamp to finish out the day. Night near Talparo.

Days 3: This morning we’ll work our way through picturesque rural villages and peaceful farm roads on our way to an area characterized by pockets of wetlands and pastures bordered by mangroves. This hodgepodge of habitats hosts a wide variety of species including Ruddy-breasted Seedeater, Striped Cuckoo, Pinnated Bittern, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Limpkin, Spotted Tody-Flycatcher, Yellow-hooded Blackbird, Red-breasted Meadowlark and Masked Yellowthroat. Wattled Jacana, Ringed Kingfisher, White-headed Marsh Tyrant, Purple Gallinule, Striated Heron, Black-bellied Whistling-Duck, and Black-tailed Tityras are all possible as well.

In the afternoon we’ll work our way towards an extensive tidal mudflat along the west coast of the island. Impressive numbers of Yellow-billed and Large-billed Terns are usually around, and we’ll also keep an eye open for Collared Plovers among other shorebirds. This area of Trinidad has hosted several vagrants, and we’ll keep an eye out for wayward shorebirds and gulls and perhaps the rare Rufous Crab-Hawk, a resident that has been recorded along this stretch of coastline.

In the late afternoon we’ll check into the recently reopened, refurbished, and world-renowned Asa Wright Nature Center, our comfortable base for the next three nights. Night at Asa Wright Nature Center.

Days 4-5: The first morning at Asa Wright can be almost overwhelming to the senses. Excellent birding can be had right from the lodge’s famed veranda. As we sip coffee or tea, we’ll enjoy close encounters with many of the 25 or more species that regularly visit the feeders here, including several species of colorful tanagers as well as hummingbirds. The veranda also offers a spectacular view over the surrounding forest, where many other species not prone to visit the feeders can be spotted in the first rays of sun lighting the treetops, including Bearded Bellbird or perhaps even Ornate Hawk-Eagle. Still more species can be seen by taking short walks on the grounds or along the narrow entrance road to the lodge. We may witness the exuberant displays of Golden-headed and White-bearded Manakins; three species of trogon are also possible. 

One of the main attractions at Asa Wright is the deep fissure known as Dunton Cave. Along the way we’ll keep an eye out for the non-bird denizens of the forest here such as Red-rumped Agouti and Golden Tegu Lizard. The main attraction here though is the bizarre Oilbird, which takes of residence in the cave. This is one of the most accessible Oilbird locations in the world and we’ll enjoy face-to-face views with this monotypic species.

The next morning will take us farther into the majestic forest of the Northern Range along the Blanchisseuse Road, where we’ll look for Black-faced Antthrush, Speckled Tanager, and Golden-crowned Warbler, among many others. We’ll keep an eye to the sky for raptors, including the beautiful White Hawk. 

Lunch will find us in the charming village of Brasso Seco and will be followed by a cacao demonstration (featuring samples!) from one of the local farmers belonging to a community initiative. Here, surrounded by cacao trees, we may also be joined by Turquoise Tanager, Lineated and Chestnut Woodpeckers, and Green Hermit. Afterwards, we’ll continue through the mountains to Morne la Croix where Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Yellow-rumped Cacique, Yellow-headed Caracara, Crested Oropendola and Long-billed Gnatwren are possible. Settling down with tea and cakes (or a home-brewed rum punch if you prefer), we have the pleasure of watching dazzlingly colorful Blue-headed Parrots fly into their roosts.

Following a delicious meal, we’ll go on a night walk through the lush forest where we’ll try to encounter nocturnal species such as Trinidad Chevron Tarantulas, Coral Snakes, Spectacled Owls, Tropical Screech-Owls, and Tailless Whip Scorpions. Nights at Asa Wright Nature Center.

Day 6: On our final morning at Asa Wright, we’ll revel in the incredible dawn chorus and enjoy the myriad of species that come into the feeders and numerous flowering plants and trees that surround the lodge’s verandah. The extensive property hosts several forest-dwelling species, and we’ll target any remaining species we haven’t yet seen. We’ll pay a visit to leks tucked away in the forest, where the Golden-headed and White-bearded Manakins will be entertaining us with their territorial displays, which is always a sight to be had! A final stroll along the Discovery Trail will hopefully unearth some treasured gems such as Gray-throated Leaftosser and Black-faced Antthrush. Our walk culminates at a reliable spot for up-close sightings of the remarkable Bearded Bellbird - an unforgettable encounter.

In the afternoon we’ll depart Asa Wright and head to the quaint fishing village of Grand Riviere on Trinidad’s rugged and dramatic north coast. Here, we will search for the endemic Trinidad Piping Guan (known locally as Pawi). This is the only reliable site remaining on Earth for encounters with a bird that once numbered many thousands of individuals, but that has been hunted relentlessly and now teeters on the verge of extinction. We’ll make a few birding stops along the way but upon arrival at Grand Riviere our main focus for the afternoon will be searching for the guan among the wild nutmeg trees, which provide their preferred food. The birding is excellent here and the afternoon may reveal 60 or more species.

Having hopefully found the Pawi, we will check into our hotel in time for dinner. The stretch of unspoiled quartz-rich sand in front of the hotel is one of the most important nesting grounds for the Leatherback Turtle in the world, and boasts hundreds of sightings during the months of March to August. With luck, we will bear witness as these gargantuan prehistoric marine reptiles haul themselves up the beach, clambering over one another, to lay their eggs along this protected coastline. Night in Grand Riviere.

Day 7: This morning, we will have a second chance of viewing the Piping Guan, particularly if we did not see it in the previous afternoon. The surrounding area, nestled in a large cacao estate, should be active with birds feeding on the wild nutmeg trees and we’ll keep an eye out for Little Tinamou, Smooth-billed Ani, White-tipped Dove, White-flanked Antwren, Purple, Red-legged and Green Honeycreepers, Pale-breasted Spinetail, and a host of hummingbirds.

After lunch we’ll have a more relaxed afternoon enjoying the tranquility of our surroundings and searching for any species we may still be missing. Night in Grand Riviere.

Day 8: Following breakfast, we will depart for the 2-hour ride to the airport and our short flight to Tobago, where we’ll transfer to our lodgings at Cuffie River Nature Retreat located on the edge of the historic Main Ridge Forest Reserve. Geologically, culturally, and ornithologically distinct, Tobago is quite different than its larger neighbor Trinidad and this will be quite evident on our arrival. Along the way we’ll visit a small mangrove where White-fringed Antwren and the endemic “Tobago” subspecies of Scrub Greenlet can be found. We’ll again find ourselves living amid excellent habitat, and our new home offers chances for Ruby-topaz Hummingbird, Trinidad Motmot, and Common Potoo, among a host of others. Night at Cuffie River Nature Retreat.

Days 9-10: From our base at Cuffie, we’ll explore the island paradise of Tobago. For one morning we will explore the Gilpin Trace, a magnificent piece of pristine forest draped in mosses and lianas. We visit a little-known lek for Blue-backed Manakin and delight in the acrobatic antics of this beautiful species. Here we may also encounter, among others, Plain Antvireo, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Stripe-breasted Spinetail, Yellow-legged Thrush, and the near-endemic White-tailed Sabrewing. Elsewhere we’ll be in search of other species not found on Trinidad, including Rufous-vented Chachalaca, Striped Owl, White-fringed Antwren, and Red-crowned Woodpecker. The late afternoon is yours to stroll the grounds and surrounding trails or select a favorite perch either on the front or rear main balcony from which to enjoy sightings of an incredible array of hummingbirds - including the aforementioned Sabrewing. Over 100 species have been spotted in this forest, so we’ll have much of the day searching for them.

As sunset approaches, flocks of parrots, parrotlets, and noisy chachalacas break the silence as they return to their evening roosts. After dark we’ll search for the tiny White-tailed Nightjar, a near-endemic which can be found right on the property.

For our second day on Tobago, we’ll drive along the scenic coastline towards the seaside town of Speyside. Here we’ll trade our vehicle for a glass-bottomed boat to take a short ride out to Little Tobago Island. The island, one of the country’s most significant wildlife sanctuaries, boasts one of the largest seabird colonies in the entire Caribbean and upon approach from the boat numerous seabirds should already be visible wheeling and cavorting over the waves. As we disembark from the jetty, we will begin our ascent into the dry tropical forest. Here the spectacular tropical scenery is enhanced by a great show of nesting seabirds. Red-billed Tropicbirds, Brown and Red-footed Boobies, and Magnificent Frigatebirds whirl about, and we may even spot an Audubon’s Shearwater out over the sea. These encounters are interspersed with regular sightings of Bridled, Sooty, Roseate and Royal Terns as well as Brown Noddies.

We’ll return to Tobago for lunch, and afterwards we’ll have the afternoon to explore more of the tropical gardens of our accommodation and the busy feeding frenzy at the bird feeders. Nights at Cuffie River Nature Retreat.

Day 11: After breakfast, we’ll transfer to the airport for our return 20-minute flight from Tobago to Trinidad and onward journey home.

2019 Narrative

This year’s tour to Trinidad and Tobago was wonderful, with a week of superb birding, excellent food and accommodations, and fine companionship making for a truly enjoyable time.  On Trinidad, with our wonderful local guide Roodal Ramlal, we took leisurely day-trips from our base at the world-class lodge at Asa Wright Nature Center.  We spent an evening night-birding at Aripo Savannah, took a boat ride through the mangroves at Caroni Swamp, explored the east coast around Nariva Swamp, and ventured into the highlands just up the road from the lodge.  Staying at Asa means that even “downtime” offers the possibility of thrilling birding, either around the grounds, or simply from the veranda of the main house, where the bird feeders are a constant hotspot of fervent activity.  After five nights at Asa Wright, we took the short plane ride over to Tobago to stay at Cuffie River Nature Retreat, a beautiful, open-air lodge with exceptional meals, and excellent birding on the grounds.  From Cuffie we took excursions to Gilpin Trace, the world’s oldest rainforest preserve, and to Little Tobago Island.  From the bustling and jungle-like atmosphere of much of Trinidad, Tobago offers a contrast, with a more laid-back, Caribbean air. 

Asa Wright quickly felt like home to us, and we spent much of our first full day there just observing the birdlife in the immediate area.  Awaking to the gong of the Bearded Bellbird, we looked out from the veranda and tallied an impressive list, including half a dozen species of tanagers and as many species of hummingbirds, Squirrel Cuckoo, and swarms of honeycreepers and Euphonias crowding the feeders.  After breakfast we took a walk down a trail leading into the rich forest.  Once away from the frenzy of the veranda birds, other species soon became evident, including both Golden-headed and White-bearded Mannakins feeding on a fruiting fig tree, noisy Boat-billed Flycatchers, and lots more.  Black Hawk-Eagles cried over the forest canopy.  As we approached one bellbird territory, the sound became deafening, and by remaining silent we were rewarded with breathtaking views of the odd bird giving his tremendous song, like a blacksmith on an anvil.  After a tasty lunch we had time for some more birding on the grounds, sorting out four species of swifts over the lodge, and watching a White Hawk pursued by a little Bat Falcon.  A parade of ants on the driveway produced excellent looks at woodcreepers and White-bellied Antbirds, among others.  In the late afternoon we took an excursion to nearby Aripo Savannah with Roodal.  Arriving with the last rays of sun, we quickly spotted Sulphury Flycatchers and Moriche Oriole, both Moriche palm specialists, and enjoyed a field dinner while listening to the plaintive song of the Little Tinamou.  As the night fell the nightbirds chimed in, including Common Pauraque in the forested areas, and White-tailed Nighjars in the grasslands.  Patrolling the roads with a spotlight produced incredible views of a Common Potoo on his perch.   

The next day after breakfast and a look out off the veranda, where several Channel-billed Toucans made appearances, we geared up for an excursion to the higher elevations on the Blanchisseuse Road.  All morning sifting through flurries of birds in the lively forest, we found such gems as Speckled Tanager, Olive-striped Flycatcher, two species of trogon, and Gray-headed Kite.  In a little village on the other side of the mountain we found a colony of Yellow-rumped Caciques, a flock of Blue-headed Parrots, and a spectacular Crimson-crested Woodpecker.  After a full day exploring the beautiful range, with views of the sea below to our north, we returned to Asa in time for some casual birding on the grounds.  Here we found Lineated Woodpecker, and the evening-feeding Long-billed Starthroat. 

Our third full day we devoted to exploring the east coast of Trinidad, with Nariva Swamp as our destination.  Setting out after breakfast (and, of course, already with some great birding had on the veranda), our first stop was the Aripo Livestock Research Station.  This area of open pasture and cattle attracts great numbers of vultures as well as raptors, including many Savanna Hawks.  A new spinetail was here, the Pale-breasted Spinetail.  Little ponds and wet areas produced both Pied Water-Tyrants and White-headed Marsh Tyrants, as well as Wattled Jacanas.  Continuing on, we reached the eastern shore at Manzanilla Beach, where we took lunch.  Not much over the waves here save a few pelicans and frigatebirds, though Yellow Orioles sang sweetly in the palms.  Driving south we encountered a number of Yellow-headed Caracaras as we neared the great swamp, stopping also for watermelons at a roadside stand.  Soon the road was flanked by mangroves on both sides, and here we found several new birds, including Silvered Antwren, Black-crested Antshrike, and Bicolored Conebill.  We ventured on to the Kernaham Road, where locals live in close intimacy with the wetlands.  Lots of wading birds here, and another new spinetail, the yellow-chin.  Other marsh birds included Yellow-hooded Blackbirds, several shorebirds, lots of Smooth-billed Anis, and a new hummingbird not found in the highlands, the White-tailed Goldenthroat.  Loafing among the palms at one homestead was a real rarity, a smart young Snail Kite.  Nearby we caught up with a majestic flock of Blue-and-Yellow Macaws, in many respects among the most spectacular of avian creations.  After lingering and taking in the sites and sounds of the swamp through the cool of the afternoon, we returned to our mountain lodge in time for a hearty dinner.

A leisurely morning of breakfast and birding was on the docket for the following day, followed by a hike on the grounds with one of the Center’s fine naturalists, to the famous cave of the Oilbirds!  We took our time on the trail, which is in excellent condition, enjoying the deep forest, finally arriving at a spot where a stream enters a great rock cleft.  We entered two or three at a time, briefly illuminating the walls with a torch, and revealing the strange creatures therein.  Oilbirds.  So-called because of their unfortunate ability to burn and stay lit for many hours.  After lunch at the lodge, we set out for our other big swamp adventure, this time to the famous Caroni Swamp on the island’s west coast.  First a stop in Trincity, where Pearl Kites were looking gorgeous in fresh new plumage.  Once at Caroni, we had time before our scheduled boat ride to look for Masked Cardinals near the boat launch, with great success.  Here we boarded a sleek and spacious wooden boat and entered the magnificent mangrove forests with our amazing guide, Lester, a man whose love for the Caroni has the deepest roots.  Gliding through the narrow lanes, we spotted several non-avian wonders, including a Boa Constrictor, and a sleeping Silky Anteater!  Birds included a new woodcreeper, a new hummingbird (Green-throated Mango), and Striped Cuckoos. Entering a big open lake, where a great flock of American Flamingos already was blushing in the late-day light, we dropped anchor, poured the punch, and watched as the evening set in over the mangroves, and with it the return of countless wading birds to their island roost.  At its peak, a nearly unabated procession of egrets, Little-blue Herons, and, oh yes, Scarlet Ibis.  Seemingly more than the little island could hold.  Upon entering the roost, the white egrets find their perches out of view, inside the trees, while the ibis stand as sentinels on the outer parts, so that the effect is as of a berry-laden holly tree.  Truly an iconic image of birding on Trinidad.

After a final morning taking in the birds of Asa, including good looks at the marvelous little Tufted Coquette hummingbird, and still finding new species like the Gray-throated Leaftosser, we had to move on, boarding a short plane hop to Tobago in the early afternoon.  Once on the beautiful, clean, ocean-breeze island, we were met by our simply great local guide, Jason Radix, and dove right into birding.  At the Bon Accord ponds we were pleased to find a Little Egret, a Whimbrel, and the first of several species not present on Trinidad, including the spectacular Scrub Greenlet.  Maybe the most beautiful hummingbird, the Ruby Topaz, is quite common here as well.  After a truly pleasant afternoon of birding, we arrived at our home base while on Tobago, the Cuffie River Nature Retreat.  Here, the Trinidad Motmot, which had all but eluded us on the island of its namesake, proved quite numerous and showy, perhaps warranting a name change.  A new hummingbird was here as well, the White-tailed Sabrewing.  Cuffie, with its brilliant setting, its wonderful meals, swimming pool, and airy spacious rooms, made for a fine place to relax indeed.  At night the White-tailed Nightjars put on a show right around the building. 

Our first full day on the island was full of adventure.  Birds at the lodge in the morning included Great Black Hawk, lots of swifts, more motmots, and many others.  Jason fetched us at Cuffie after a superb breakfast and took us to Gilpin Trace, a forest preserve since 1776 (!).  Here we found Yellow-legged Thrush, lots of Rufous-tailed Jacamars, Fuscous Flycatcher, the striking Plain Antvireo, and much more.  We had lunch in beautiful Speyside, right by the beach, and then continued on to Blue Waters Inn, where we boarded a boat to Little Tobago Island, just off the coast, led by the intrepid Zolani.  A tiny island rich in history, Little Tobago’s main attraction nowadays is its colony of seabirds.  Cresting the top of the island and looking out to the east, a great show of Red-billed Tropicbirds and two kinds of boobies can be had.  Zolani told us all about the strange history of the Birds of Paradise on the island, and showed us the occupied burrows of Audubon’s Shearwaters on the forest floor.  As we pulled away from the island we were fortunate to spot a few Scaly-naped Pigeons, a recent arrival here.  Having seen a good slice of Tobago, we headed back to Cuffie for a proper dinner.

On our final day of birding, we took a leisurely time in the morning steeped in the birdlife around Cuffie River, and were met by the excellent local guide Desmond, a wonderful, lively child of nature who hops about and whistles a bit like a manakin, and whose skills in interpreting the world around him are rivaled only by his skill with the machete.  And indeed he showed us the gorgeous Blue-backed Manakin, not found on Trinidad, as well as a sleeping potoo, and a host of other birds.  We all greatly enjoyed our morning ramble, and after lunch at the lodge decided to take the afternoon off to fully process our experiences, and to take advantage of our home.  Next day it was off to the airport and away.

Trinidad and Tobago is full of wonderful birds, wonderful food and people, and has a very special atmosphere all its own.  I love this tour!  Thanks to all for making it so enjoyable.      

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