Vietnam

Day 1: Participants should arrive in Hanoi no later than 5 p.m. Night in Hanoi.

Days 2-4: After an early breakfast we’ll depart Hanoi for Cuc Phuong National Park, an area of limestone hills covered in primary rainforest and the first national park to be established in Vietnam. We’ll have two full days to explore the park, where we’ll hope to see such special birds as Bar-bellied and Blue-rumped Pittas, Silver-breasted Broadbill, White-tailed Flycatcher, White-winged Magpie, Ratchet-tailed Treepie, Rufous-throated Fulvetta, Limestone Wren-Babbler, Fujian Niltava, and Pied Falconet. One afternoon we’ll visit Van Long Nature Reserve. Here we’ll take a sampan to the dramatic limestone cliffs that are home to the largest population of one of Vietnam’s most beautiful of its many endangered primates, the Delacour Langur. Various waders, herons, bitterns, and a breeding pair of Bonelli’s Eagles are often seen here. Nights at the Park Headquarters guesthouse.

Day 5: We’ll have a bit of time for early morning birding at Cuc Phuong before transferring to Hanoi’s Noi Bai Airport for the short flight to Hue, in central Vietnam. On arrival we’ll drive to the scenically stunning Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its extensive cave systems and rugged limestone karsts. Night at Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. 

Day 6: We’ll have a full day to explore Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park in search of such limestone specialists as the near-endemic Sooty Babbler and Limestone Leaf-warbler. The scarce and rarely seen Red-collared Woodpecker is also possible, as is another scarce endemic primate, Ha Tinh Langur. The birdlife is active and exciting, and large mixed flocks often contain some very glamorous species: Sultan Tit is common and Purple Cochoa is sometimes seen. This afternoon we’ll visit the world-renowned cave system of this remarkable area. The Phong Nha Cave is the second largest in the world (the first and third largest are found deeper within Phong Nha National Park) and a short boat trip and walk deep inside the cave is an unforgettable experience. Night in Phong Nha.

Day 7: After an early morning birding session back at Phong Nha National Park, we’ll depart for the long drive south to the Sa Mu Pass located in the Bac Huong Hoa Natural Area. We will bird at various spots along the way including a break for lunch at Lang Co on the coast to look for the recently described White-faced Plover.  If we have time we’ll bird at our destination before checking in to our hotel. Night in Khe San.

Day 8: We’ll have a full day to explore this little-known area, which is located right on the Laos border in the narrowest part of Vietnam in the centre of the Annamite Mountains range. This lovely, forested area is home to several Vietnamese and regional endemics, including Red-vented Barbet, White-winged Magpie, and Blyth’s Kingfisher. But our most wanted birds will be the range restricted Central Vietnam specialities – Red-collared Woodpecker, Black-crowned Barwing, Rufous and White-cheeked Laughingthrushes and the elusive Short-tailed Scimitar-Babbler. Other spectacular birds here include Ratchet-tailed Treepie, Indochinese Green Magpie, Black-throated and Lesser-necklaced Laughingthrushes, and a distinctive subspecies of Sultan Tit with a glossy blue-black crown—a possible future split. Red-shanked Douc Langur, a beautiful and endangered primate, is sometimes seen in the treetops below the summit trails. Night in Khe San.

Day 9: After some more birding, we’ll leave the Sa Mu area in the mid-morning when the birding activity drops for the five-hour drive south to Ngoc Linh on the newly constructed Ho Chi Minh Highway. We should arrive in the Ngoc Linh area in the late afternoon. Night at Tu Mo Rông.

Day 10: Ngoc Linh Nature Reserve is one of the best birding hotspots in Central Vietnam; the area is the second highest mountain range in Viet Nam and is recognised as a Key Biodiversity Area, Important Bird Area, and a Global Endemic Bird Area. There are many birding highlights here, amongst them the endemic Golden-winged and Red-tailed Laughingthrushes, more chances for Black-crowned Barwing, as well as Indochinese Fulvetta, Annam Golden-breasted Fulvetta, Coral-billed Scimitar-Babbler, Red-tailed Minla, and Ferruginous Flycatcher. Night at Tu Mo Rông.

Day 11: After a final morning birding in Ngoc Linh we’ll continue south down the Ho Chi Minh Highway to Mang Den, a quiet town located in Vietnam’s central highlands. Night at Mang Den. 

Day 12: We’ll have a full day at Mang Den, where the seldom-seen and exceptionally shy endemic Chestnut-eared Laughingthrush, discovered in 1999 and seen by only a handful of birders, will be our main quarry. Just a few kilometers from the town we’ll explore a large area of excellent montane forest, the most reliable site in Vietnam for three other scarce birds: Pale-capped Pigeon, Yellow-billed Nuthatch, and Black-hooded Laughingthrush. Night at Mang Den.

Day 13-14: We’ll have a second morning’s birding at Mang Den before taking the scenic drive north to Yok Don National Park, arriving in time for a late lunch and some afternoon birding. This recently declared national park borders the Mondulkiri Protected Area in Cambodia and constitutes one of the largest areas of protected lowland forest in Southeast Asia. The habitat is characterized as a mosaic of deciduous and semi-evergreen forest interspersed with areas of rainforest. Specialties here include the scarce White-rumped Pygmy-falcon, Collared Falconet, several woodpeckers including the beautiful Black-headed, Rufous Treepie and the curiously-named Neglected Nuthatch. Not surprisingly, it’s considered one of the most biodiverse areas of Vietnam and a number of species that have disappeared elsewhere in the region can still be found here. Nights at Yok Don National Park HQ. 

Day 15: After an early breakfast we’ll cross the Srepok River to bird in and around the Yok Don Botanical Gardens. We’ll leave Yok Don mid-morning for the drive to Da Lat, stopping en route for lunch. Night at Da Lat. 

Days 16–17: We have two full days to explore the excellent birding sites around Da Lat. In the Ta Nung Valley, a small but bird-filled area of remnant evergreen forest about 6 miles (10 km) from Da Lat, we’ll look for the rare and endemic Grey-crowned Crocia as well as White-cheeked Laughingthrush. The distinctive subspecies of Blue-winged Minla, Rufous-backed and Black-headed Sibias, and Black-throated Sunbird can also be found here.  

In addition to the wonderful Ta Nung Valley two other sites around Da Lat are well worth visiting: Mount Lang Bian and Bi Doup National Park. Mount Lang Bian is a 6700-foot peak about 20 minutes by road from Da Lat, and we’ll spend a day exploring its pine and montane evergreen forests. Our target species here include wintering Mugimaki Flycatcher, Grey-crowned Tit, Vietnamese Cutia, Black-crowned Fulvetta, and Vietnamese Greenfinch. Bi Doup National Park is a wonderful birding area where we might find birds such as Burmese Shrike, Slender-billed Oriole, Indochinese Cuckooshrike, and Vietnamese Crossbill, among many other species in the coniferous forests, while the evergreen forests hold one of the most sought-after species on the Da Lat Plateau, the beautiful and very secretive endemic Collared Laughingthrush. We’ll also appreciate Da Lat’s cooler climes and its old French colonial buildings and numerous outdoor cafes, restaurants, and markets. Nights at Da Lat. 

Day 18: This morning we’ll head to Di Linh, a two-hour drive from Da Lat. Descending from the plateau, we’ll pass by a virtual mosaic of rubber, teak, tea, and coffee plantations, as well as fascinating Vietnamese architecture. The forested mountain pass known as Deo Suoi Lanh is an ideal site to look for several Da Lat Plateau specialties, including Black-hooded, White-cheeked, and Orange-breasted Laughingthrushes and the near-endemic Black-crowned Parrotbill. We may also find the gorgeous Blue Pitta. We’ll continue onward from the pass to arrive at Cat Tien National Park in the late afternoon. Night at Cat Tien headquarters.

Days 19-21: Cat Tien National Park contains the largest remaining area of lowland tropical forest in southern Vietnam. We’ll have an amazing three full days around the park. There are more than 330 bird species here, including the endangered Germain’s Peacock-Pheasant, Green Peafowl, and the very elusive Orange-necked Partridge. The list of mammals includes Eurasian Wild Pig, Sambar, Red Muntjac, and Gaur (very scarce, although increasing in numbers) as well as two endangered primates, Black-shanked Douc Langur and Buff-cheeked Gibbon.

Over the next three days we’ll take jeeps to visit areas around the park such as Heavens Rapids and Crocodile Lakes, where Grey-headed Fish-Eagle and Lesser Adjutant may be seen. The three-mile walk through the forest to Crocodile Lake is an excellent place to look for Germain’s Peacock-Pheasant and Blue-rumped and Bar-bellied Pittas, as well as Red-and-Black and Banded Broadbills and Orange-breasted Trogon, among many others. Other Cat Tien specialties include Scaly-breasted (Green-legged) Partridge, Siamese Fireback, White-bellied, Great Slaty, and Black-and-buff Woodpeckers, Red-vented Barbet, Woolly-necked Stork, and Grey-faced Tit-Babbler. Nights at Cat Tien headquarters.

Day 22: We’ll have a last morning of birding in Cat Tien National Park before driving back to Ho Chi Minh City for our final dinner. Night at Ho Chi Minh City.

Day 23: The tour concludes this morning in Ho Chi Minh City with transfers to Tan Son Nhat International Airport for flights home.

2024 Narrative

IN BRIEF: Once again, the Vietnam tour surpassed all expectations – from the mesmerizing variety of birds and other wildlife to breathtaking landscapes and unforgettable cultural encounters. Beginning our journey in the vibrant capital of Hanoi and culminating in the bustling streets of Saigon in the south, each step revealed diverse birdlife, ecosystems, and picturesque vistas.

Cuc Phuong National Park
Departing from Hanoi, our journey unfolded southward along the iconic National Route 1, a legendary highway spanning the entirety of Vietnam, stretching 2301 kilometres from the Chinese border to the southernmost tip of the country. We weren’t quite ready to travel that far just yet, so a relatively brief two-and-a-half-hour drive brought us to the national park just in time for lunch. Over the next two days, we explored the park, traversing it from end to end as we birded at various points on the scenic drive from the park headquarters to the Bong Substation, situated at the terminus of the sole road that cuts through the park’s picturesque landscape.

Despite persistent inclement weather – characterized by chilling cold and relentless rain – our determination prevailed, leading to several remarkable bird sightings during our sojourn in Vietnam’s premier national park. Established in 1960 under the watchful guidance of then-President Ho Chi Minh, this expansive sanctuary encompasses a landscape of limestone karst mountains and verdant valleys, harboring an impressive diversity of plant and animal species. Despite the weather’s persistence, an extended stay at a strategically positioned hide proved fortuitous, affording us sightings of several elusive birds such as the Rufous-tailed Robin, Fujian Niltava, Rufous-throated Fulvetta, as well as the Japanese and Black-throated Thrushes – species that might have otherwise eluded us. Roadside birding, though at times slow, yielded fruitful results, punctuated by noteworthy encounters with elusive species such as the Annam Limestone Babblers, Red-headed Trogon, Orange-headed Thrush, and Greater Flameback. Closer to the headquarters, our exploration rewarded us with more sightings, including Rufous Prinia, White-bellied Erpornis, Pin-striped Tit-Babblers, and an assortment of bulbuls.

Van Long Wetland Nature Reserve
One afternoon, we ventured to the Van Long Nature Reserve, located about an hour away from the park. Here, we embarked on a fleet of small boats expertly guided by local navigators, meandering through the labyrinthine waterways flanked by dense reedbeds, and karsts rising dramatically from the wetlands. One couldn’t ask for a more peaceful and picturesque birding experience as we marvelled at large congregations of unlikely looking Asian Openbills, interspersed with welcome sightings of Black, Yellow and Cinnamon Bitterns. Bubbling Blue-tailed Bee-eaters cavorted overhead as we spotted lumbering Greater Coucals, charming Amur Stonechats, and a diversity of prinias.

Phong Nha National Park

Formally known at Phong Nha-Ké Bàng, this exceptionally beautiful reserve was the next stop on our birding journey. Situated approximately 500 kilometers south of Hanoi, we arrived in the late afternoon following a lengthy journey. Beyond its breathtaking scenery, this national park was established not only to safeguard its remarkable biodiversity but also because it boasts the world’s largest karst system, harboring over 300 caves. This includes the illustrious trio of the planet’s largest caves, notably the awe-inspiring S?n ?oòng Cave, whose existence was discovered only in 2009.

Our primary objective here was to encounter the elusive Sooty Babbler, a species rediscovered in 1994 after having been previously known only from specimens collected in Laos in 1920. Thankfully, our quest proved fruitful, and in our pursuit, we crossed paths with several other captivating avian species, including the Brown-rumped (Swinhoe’s) Minivet, the striking Long-tailed Broadbill, Racket-tailed Treepie, Sultan Tit, and Streaked Spiderhunter.

An afternoon voyage by boat along the S?n River towards the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Phong Nha Cave, is an enthralling adventure. The tranquil journey unfolds against a backdrop of verdant foliage and snippets of local life dotting the riverbanks. As the boat ventures closer to the mouth of Phong Nha Cave, the imposing limestone cliffs adorned with intricate stalactites and stalagmites lure explorers into its mysterious depths. Stepping onto the cave’s shores, enveloped by its cool, damp ambiance, one is immediately struck by the overwhelming beauty and profound historical significance of this majestic subterranean marvel.

Stationing ourselves on a bridge overlooking the dramatic landscape, we were delighted to spot Rufous-bellied Eagle, Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo, Red-vented Barbet, and Spot-necked Babbler. A brief detour directed by Trong took us to a spot where a brief blast of a Short-tailed Scimitar-Babbler call yielded an immediate and dramatic response. Our return to the bridge the following morning proved equally rewarding, with sightings of Green-eared Barbet, Indochinese Yuhina and three species of laughingthrush - White-crested, Black-throated and Lesser Necklaced - standing out as particular highlights.

Deo Sa Mu
Continuing our journey southward, our next destination was Khe Sanh, a modest town nestled right in the heart of Vietnam, forever etched in history as the site of one of the most intense battles of the Vietnam War, referred to in Vietnam as the American War. Visiting this town today, devoid of historical context, one would hardly fathom the tragic events that once unfolded here.

Our brief stay was marked by a fleeting visit to the excellent birding site known as Sa Mu Pass. We were treated to wonderful sightings of Crested Goshawks, Necklaced and Moustached Barbets, Lesser Racket-tailed Drongos, along with an array of bulbuls and babblers, and the charming Verditer Flycatcher. These sightings beautifully complemented our eagerly anticipated, albeit challenging, quest to catch a glimpse of the elusive Rufous-cheeked Laughingthrushes!

Ngoc Linh
Our journey then led us to the tiny and remote village of Tu Mo Rong, serving as our hub for exploring nearby Ngoc Linh, aptly named Jade Mountain in English. Embarking on an adventurous hike deep into the forest, we arrived at a well-prepared blind where we waited patiently, albeit unsuccessfully, for our elusive target. Nonetheless, our efforts were richly rewarded with sightings of some highly sought-after birds – including the Grey-bellied Tesia, Golden Babbler, Brown-crowned Scimitar-Babbler, Rufous-winged, Rusty-capped, and Indochinese Fulvetta, along with the Black-crowned Barwing. These sightings ensured that our endeavours were far from futile.

M?ng ?en
This newly established town, built in 2003 and situated at 1200 meters on the M?ng ?en Plateau, was envisioned to draw in throngs of tourists enticed by its refreshing climate and picturesque surroundings. However, despite these expectations, the town has yet to experience the influx of visitors. Nevertheless, since its inception, it has become a magnet for birding enthusiasts drawn by the promise of encountering some truly remarkable avian species.

From the comfort of our well-appointed hotel base, we embarked on numerous excursions into the nearby forest. Along roadsides and trails, we sought out birds such as the Indochinese Barbet, Stripe-breasted Woodpecker, Clicking Shrike-Babbler, Yellow-cheeked Tit, Pale Blue-Flycatcher, and Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird. On one occasion, a cute Collared Owlet allowed us extended views, its familiar call echoing through the forest as it revealed the captivating eyespots on the back of its head.

Although our attempts to catch a glimpse of the infuriating Blyth’s Paradise Flycatcher were less fruitful, we were treated to some excellent sightings of smaller avian delights such as the Rufous-faced Warbler, Black-throated Tit, Black-chinned Yuhina, and Fire-breasted Flowerpecker. The elusive Grey-headed Parrotbill posed a greater challenge, briefly revealing themselves to only a fortunate few among our group of birders.

Yok Don National Park
Our next destination provided a complete change of pace! Yok Don sits right on the border with Cambodia, contiguous with the Cambodian Mondulkiri Protected Forest. Unlike the forests we had previously explored, the landscape here offers a distinct contrast, characterized by a mosaic of deciduous and mixed deciduous forests. This unique habitat gives rise to a diverse avifauna, setting it apart from the other locations we had visited.

Exploring Yok Don was an exciting adventure, as we encountered a whole new array of bird species. Although our accommodations in the national park were rustic, being nestled right in the heart of the action added to the experience. Our birdwatching targets were plentiful, and we achieved remarkable success!

During our initial exploration, we were swiftly greeted by the sight of Indochinese Roller, Eurasian Hoopoe, Lineated Barbet, Black-hooded Oriole, Velvet-fronted Nuthatche, Purple Sunbird, and Golden-fronted Leafbird. We were thrilled when our sought-after targets, the Black-headed Woodpecker and Burmese Nuthatch, cooperated beautifully.

Further expeditions rewarded us with sightings of Common Woodshrike, White-crested Laughingthrush, Rufous Treepie, Crested Treeswift, Asian Barred Owlet, and more. The surprise appearance of a pair of Black Bazas was an unexpected delight, too!

?à L?t
Our penultimate destination, Da Lat, proved to be one of our favourites. This large and bustling, yet delightful city, is located on the Langbian or ?à L?t Plateau in Vietnam’s southeast. The plateau’s isolation has fostered the evolution of a distinctive fauna, including numerous endemic species and subspecies.

We birded several excellent sites and blinds during our three nights stay here, including the Bi Dup National Park (an Important Bird Area as designated by Birdlife International), Ta Nung Valley, and Cong Troi (another IBA). Though our targets were plentiful, they required diligent effort to locate.

We began our efforts at Bi Dup where we found Black-hooded and White-cheeked Laughingthrushes, as well as our first stunning Indochinese Magpies. White-tailed Robins were cooperative, as were Black-browed Fulvetta, Large Niltava and Black-headed Sibia. We were thrilled to find a group of exceptionally cooperative Black-headed Parrotbills, in company with Mountain Tailorbird and Long-tailed Broadbill. To our delight, the hoped-for Yellow-billed Nuthatch also made a welcome appearance.

Our next stop was Ta Nung Valley, and if anyone ever asks about the most peculiar place I’ve ever birded, this is certainly the answer! What was once a tranquil patch of forest has now been transformed into the “Hoa Son Dien Trang Ecotourism Destination,” which is a rather exaggerated use of the term “ecotourism.” This selfie paradise is undeniably bizarre, yet amidst the chaos, the birds persist, which is quite remarkable!

Despite the unconventional setting, our birding experience here was surprisingly fruitful. We enjoyed notable sightings of the Indochinese Barbet, Grey-headed Pygmy Woodpecker, White-browed (Da Lat) Shrike-Babbler, Burmese Shrike, Green-backed Tit, Hill Prinia, Flavescent Bulbul, Chestnut-vented Nuthatch, and more. Spotting a Mugimaki Flycatcher alongside a Narcissus Flycatcher was an added bonus, and encounters with Mrs. Gould’s and Black-throated Sunbirds were simply delightful.

Following a splendid birthday celebration featuring a beautiful bird-themed cake (skillfully sliced), our next adventure led us to Cong Troi, another Important Bird Area designated by Birdlife International. This picturesque area is characterized by gently sloping mountains covered in evergreen forest, interspersed with patches of Pinus insularis forest, predominantly found on south-facing slopes and at lower altitudes.

Our anticipation peaked as we patiently waited at a blind, hoping for a glimpse of the glamorous endemic Collared Laughingthrush. Despite a seemingly endless wait, our perseverance paid off at the eleventh hour, much to our absolute delight. On our return journey to Da Lat, a spontaneous stop proved to be very rewarding as we were granted a much-anticipated sighting of the striking Vietnamese Cutia, yet another highly sought-after endemic species with a restricted range.

Di Linh
A relatively brief drive brought us to our next destination, the town of Di Linh, serving as our base for birding expeditions to the Deo Nui San Pass. After a brief respite at our charming hotel, we geared up in full birding attire, eager for encounters with pittas and partridges. Setting up at yet another strategically positioned blind, we were rewarded with sightings of the stunning Blue Pitta and the Bar-backed Partridge, accompanied by their adorable chicks! Additional rewards included Indochinese Magpie, Maroon Oriole, Siberian Blue Robin, White-throated Rock Thrush, and Black-headed Parrotbill.

Cát Tiên National Park
Our final destination on this remarkable journey was the renowned Cat Tien National Park. This park boasts five major habitat types, including primary evergreen, mixed deciduous, secondary, and bamboo forests, along with seasonally flooded grasslands. This diverse range of habitats supports a rich and varied fauna, ensuring that the birding here never disappoints. With four nights to spend here, we had ample time to thoroughly explore each of these diverse biomes, resulting in a fantastic list of bird sightings.

After crossing the picturesque ??ng Nai River, we settled in and wasted no time in starting our birding adventure along the paved road leading north from the park headquarters. This immediate exploration revealed some remarkable sightings, including the Indochinese Blue Flycatcher, Thick-billed Green Pigeon, and our first glimpses of the Vernal Hanging Parrots, infernally darting overhead.

Our birding expedition the following morning proved even more rewarding, with highlights such as the Green-billed Malkoha, stunning male and female Banded Kingfishers, Black-and-red Broadbill, three species of barbet, and an impressive six species of woodpecker! We were fortunate to have access to two world-class blinds, managed by the park authorities, affording us unforgettable views of some highly coveted birds, notably the Bar-bellied and Blue-rumped Pittas, Germain’s Peacock-Pheasant, and Scaly-breasted Partridge.

Our sighting of the Slaty-legged Crake at the blind came as quite a surprise, as did the Red Junglefowl, although for different reasons. It’s only when seen up close that one can truly appreciate the striking beauty of this familiar bird.

A morning spent in the grasslands to the south of the park headquarters proved to be both enjoyable and fruitful, with a whole different bunch of birds. We were delighted to come across and have excellent views of the Chinese Francolins and the majestic Green Peafowls strutting about. A pair of graceful Asian Woolly-necked Storks were well received, as were colourful Orange-breasted Green-Pigeons and Blossom-headed Parakeets. Fly by Oriental Pied-Hornbills caused quite a stir, while a pair of shy Pale-headed Woodpeckers led us on a bit of a merry chase, as did the infuriatingly skulky Chestnut-capped Babblers.

Taking the jeeps to Crocodile Lake and Heaven’s Rapids rounded off our birding explorations, with yet more excellent observations, including Orange-breasted Trogon, Crested Serpent Eagle, Black-and-buff Woodpecker, Violet Cuckoo, Grey-faced Tit-Babbler, Golden-crested Myna, Thick-billed Flowerpecker -  with its unique tail waggling behaviour, and Van Hasselt’s Sunbird, to name but a few.

Concluding our birding explorations, we embarked on jeep rides to Crocodile Lake and Heaven’s Rapids, where we were treated to yet more outstanding observations. Among the highlights were sightings of the Orange-breasted Trogon, Crested Serpent Eagle, Black-and-buff Woodpecker, Violet Cuckoo, Grey-faced Tit-Babbler, Golden-crested Myna, and Thick-billed Flowerpecker with its distinctive tail-wagging behaviour. Additionally, we were delighted to spot the Van Hasselt’s Sunbird, among many other fascinating species.

So that was Vietnam! What a great adventure. I want to extend my heartfelt gratitude to each and every one of you for your excellent companionship throughout this avian exploration of this captivating country. A special recognition is due to our local guides and drivers for their tireless dedication and invaluable contributions. I couldn’t have asked for a better team.

                                                                                                                                                                                -          Susan Myers

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