Ghana

Day 1: The tour begins this evening in Accra. Night near the airport. 

Day 2: After an early breakfast, we’ll make our way to the Shai Hills, an area of rocky outcrops or inselbergs, dry woodland and savannah. Here we should see the often split White-crowned Cliff Chat bouncing around on the rocks, as well as other specialties of this habitat including the Guinea Turaco, Mottled Spinetail and Piapiac, while our first sunbirds could include Green-headed, Splendid and Copper. Deeper in the understory of dry woodland, African Pygmy and Woodland Kingfishers lurk unobtrusively, and Vieillot’s and Double-toothed Barbets, Yellow-crowned Gonoleks and Black-billed Wood Doves can be expected, along with Brown and Blackcap Babblers, Brown-throated Wattle-eyes and Snowy-crowned Robin Chats in the more dense tangles. In the more open areas, our skills will be tested by separating Croaking, Singing and Siffling Cisticolas. The open landscape is good for raptors, and we should encounter our first Yellow-billed Kites, Shikras, Lizard Buzzards and perhaps Grey Kestrels. After a few hours birding here, we’ll head west towards Kakum National Park, and, if time allows, stop on the way at Winneba lagoon. This coastal lagoon supports a wide range of resident and migrant waders and terns, with the White-fronted Plover and West African Crested Tern both possible, alongside the Pied Kingfishers and perhaps Water Thick-knee. Continuing towards Kakum, we’ll spend the afternoon birding farmland scrub close to our hotel, where we hope to see the Red-headed Quelea, Yellow-mantled Widowbird, Bar-breasted and Blue-billed Firefinch, Village and Compact Weavers and both Red-faced and Whistling Cisticolas. Night near Kakum. 

Days 3–4: Kakum National Park is part of a huge protected area of rainforest covering 375 square miles and is the focus of our attention for the next two days. Besides the fabulous forest, Kakum is perhaps best known for its amazing aerial walkway that stretches through the forest canopy 120 feet above the ground. We are granted special access at dawn, ensuring a few hours of peaceful birding. The forest canopy is rich in bird life, and no two visits to the walkway are the same. With an ever-changing mix of Upper Guinea and Ghanaian forest specialties, over the course of a morning and afternoon spent among the branches we could be treated to a fly-by from a Congo Serpent Eagle, one of the more vocal of the area’s raptors, along with several other local specialities, including the Melancholy and Fire-bellied Woodpeckers, the Fanti Saw-wing, the Ussher’s Flycatcher, the Sharpe’s Apalis, the Sabine’s Puffback and the exquisitely marked Buff-throated Sunbird. In addition to these, many Congo and Upper Guinean forest species can be seen from the walkway perhaps including Cassin’s Hawk-Eagles, the distinctive species pair of Bristle-nosed and Naked-faced Barbets, Yellow-billed Turacos, Black-winged Orioles, Blue Cuckooshrikes, Violet-backed Hyliotas, Green Hylias, Fraser’s Forest Flycatchers and Yellow-browed Camaropteras. Hornbills are well represented, and we could encounter Piping, Western Long-tailed and Black Dwarf Hornbills in addition to the ubiquitous West African Pied Hornbill. We’ll become acquainted with the Greenbuls, a group of birds that reward careful observation despite their outwardly dull appearances! The main possibilities up here in the leaves are Spotted, Golden, White-throated, Honeyguide and Icterine. There are forest weavers too; the gorgeous Preuss’s is seen regularly, and Yellow-mantled and Maxwell’s Black Weavers can be nesting around the walkway, along with the woodpecker-like Red-headed Malimbe. To add to the complement of sunbirds, we’ll be on the lookout for Fraser’s, Johanna’s and Blue-throated Brown. More widespread species that are still worthy of mention include the glittering African Emerald Cuckoo, Red-fronted Parrot, Blue Malkoha, Velvet-mantled Drongo and Western Black-headed Oriole.

We’ll also explore other areas of the park away from the canopy. In the main forest areas we’ll search for such Upper Guinean gems as the Long-tailed Hawk, Western Yellow-billed Barbet and Copper-tailed Starling. The forest is also home to stunning Black Bee-eaters, Red-billed Dwarf Hornbills, Forest Scimitarbills, White-headed Woodhoopoes, Red-rumped and Yellow-throated Tinkerbirds, Red-billed Helmet-shrikes, Orange-breasted Forest Robins, and Africa’s smallest bird, the diminutive Tit-Hylia. If we cast our eyes skywards, in addition to the multitudes of Common Swifts that feed over the forest, we may pick out a Cassin’s, a Sabine’s and or perhaps even a Black Spinetail. Moving into the surrounding open forest and farm bush areas with its small copses of dense bamboo thickets, we should encounter the Rosy Bee-eater. This delightful winter migrant from the rivers of the Nigerian and Congo forests can often be found perched in favored trees before they it sets off on foraging trips over the canopy. The African Cuckoo-Hawk, Blue-throated Roller and Western Nicator are all present, and, if we are lucky, we may be able to tempt out into the open the incredibly skulking Lowland Sooty Boubou and the Kemp’s Longbill. Getting views of the resident pair of White-spotted Flufftails may prove easy compared to those two!  In addition, we get our first stab at Puvel’s Illadopsis, a species with a highly localized and disjointed distribution across its large range. The jewel-like Red-cheeked Wattle-eye should oblige, along with the West African Batis, Black-and-White Shrike-Flycatcher, Green Crombec and Red-vented Malimbe. A visit to a nearby river should provide views of Rock Pratincoles and both White-throated Blue and Preuss’s Swallows. There is still much to discover in these areas, and, if we are really lucky, surprises may include the seldom seen Olivaceous Flycatcher, Yellow-footed Honeyguide or African Piculet. During the heat of the day there will be chance for a swim or to relax at our hotel with Mottled Spinetail and Lanner Falcon both possibilities in the skies overhead. Nights near Kakum.

Day 5: After a final morning around Kakum, we’ll head west to spend three nights in Ankasa, an area of near-pristine tropical rainforest on the border with Ivory Coast. It has only suffered small amounts of historical logging and is said to be one of the last homes of Chimpanzee in Ghana, although they are seldom seen. As of 2022 a new lodge has opened right at the entrance to the National Park (Ankasa Reserve Lodge), so we will now use this facility rather than camping at the reserve headquarters next door. This allows us to be on site for first and last light — a very special experience. The journey will be broken by roadside stops in search of the localized Mangrove and Reichenbach’s Sunbirds, and we’ll also look for the White-browed Forest-flycatcher, a species that prefers riparian forest habitats. Finally, the access road to the forest may reveal a few delights, including the Black-throated Coucal. Night in Ankasa National Park.

Days 6–7: Ankasa has not been watched to any great extent, but the mouth-watering list of birds includes further chances for many of the species from Kakum along with many more new birds. We’ll initially focus on three small forest pools that are accessed by 4x4 vehicles along the only forest road. Here, if we are lucky, the very secretive Hartlaub’s Duck, African Finfoot and White-crested Bittern may be found, along with Shining Blue and White-bellied Kingfishers. We have also been lucky enough to see Spot-breasted Ibis here, as well as the highly localized Dwarf Crocodile. Elsewhere in this evocative forest, we’ll be looking up in the branches for the Red-thighed Sparrowhawk, the Black-capped Apalis, the ungainly Great Blue Turaco and the hulking Black-casqued and Yellow-casqued Hornbills. On the forest floor, both Ahanta and Latham’s Forest Francolins are easier heard than seen, while White-breasted (rare) and Crested Guineafowl are also possibilities. The delicate powdery hues of the shy Blue-headed Wood-Dove are perhaps easiest to appreciate here than anywhere else, and the tangles, thickets and understory of the forest support the White-tailed Alethe, White-tailed Ant-thrush and Orange-breasted Forest Robin, as well as the bewildering trio of Yellow-bearded, Western Bearded and Red-tailed Greenbuls and highly skulking Red-tailed, Green-tailed and Grey-headed Bristlebills. Flycatchers are well represented with Tessmann’s, Olivaceous, Cassin’s and Dusky-blue all possible. Both Crested and Blue-billed Malimbes are present, and the wing-snapping territorial display of the Rufous-sided Broadbill should be a familiar sound by now. The Lowland Akalat is also known from this forest. In the evening we’ll head out for some night birding with the very rare Akun Eagle-Owl our main quarry if it has evaded us until now. The African Wood Owl is also present, and we could even hear the near-mythical Nkulengu Rail, as Ankasa is one of the best places to search for this species. For the more optimistic among us, the even lesser-known Shelley’s Eagle-Owl is thought to be present here as well. Nights in Ankasa National Park.

Day 8: We’ll spend the whole morning birding around Ankasa, appreciating this forest and bamboo wonderland before we begin our journey back towards Kakum, birding en route, where we should find nesting Orange Weavers, and perhaps African Pygmy Goose. After several days of forest birding there will be a change of scenery before getting to our hotel. Brenu Beach Road offers some excellent open-country birding with Black-winged Kites, Lanner Falcons and, as dusk approaches, even an African Hobby overhead. Passerines in the scrubland may include Marsh and Black-crowned Tchagra, Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrike, Yellow-crowned Gonolek, Red-headed Quelea and Black-rumped Waxbill. Night near Kakum.

Day 9: After a final morning birding around Kakum, we’ll drive a short way north, where our attention will turn towards one of the tour’s key birds, the White-necked Rockfowl. Everything about this bird is special, and, after around an hour’s walk up a forested hillside, we’ll take our places on the purpose-built benches and wait patiently for the star to appear. Numbers vary, but we stand a very good chance of seeing this unique and elusive forest species as it returns to its rocky overhang to roost. From our vantage point we’ll then make our way back downhill and to the new guesthouse in the village for dinner and (hopefully!) a celebratory drink! Night in Bonkro. 

Day 10: Today is a long travel day, from Bonkro to Mole National Park. As we drive north, we’ll notice the birdlife change as the country becomes drier. The African Grey Hornbill will become the default hornbill, and new raptors should include the Grasshopper Buzzard, the Dark Chanting Goshawk and possibly Beaudouin’s Snake-Eagle. Our itinerary now includes a visit to a recently discovered site for the Egyptian Plover, where in 2019 we were delighted with point-blank views of this striking and remarkable wader. Once we reach our comfortable tented camp inside the park, we can enjoy a cold  as dusk approaches. More widespread species possible here should include the White-faced Whistling-Duck, Hadada Ibis, Hamerkop, Helmeted Guineafowl, Black Crake, Greater Painted-Snipe, Senegal Thick-Knee, and Grey-headed Kingfisher, among many others. Mammals will also be present, and, although the African Bush Elephant is rare at this time of year, we’ll see Kob, Bushbuck, Waterbuck and Warthogs. Olive Baboons and several species of monkey also inhabit the park. New for 2024: we are snow staying at a more comfortable lodge for the next three nights. Night at Zaina Lodge.

Days 11–12:  We’ll have three days around Mole National Park, where a good range of dry woodland and savannah species are possible. Exploring the small pools and mosaic of scrubby woodland, grassland and burnt areas, we should find one of the more sought after and elusive of Africa’s waders, Forbes’s Plover. The list of other possibilities is long, and a far from exhaustive list of highlights should include the taxonomically intriguing Stone Partridge (now one of only two Old World members of the New World Quails), Four-banded Sandgrouse, Senegal Parrot, Levaillant’s and Thick-billed Cuckoos, Violet Turaco, Blue-bellied Roller, Red-throated Bee-eater, Striped and Blue-breasted Kingfishers, Sun and Rufous-rumped Larks, African Spotted Creeper, Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike, Grey-headed Bush-shrike, White Helmet-shrike, Oriole Warbler, Scarlet-chested and Pygmy Sunbirds, Long-tailed Glossy and Lesser Blue-eared Starlings, African Paradise-Flycatcher, Yellow-bellied Hyliota, Lavender Waxbill, Red-winged Pytilia, Black-faced Firefinch, Green Woodhoopoe and Black Scimitarbill, Greater Honeyguide, Wilson’s Indigobird, Togo Paradise-Whydah and the Gosling’s Bunting. It is possible to sit in the shade at the hotel with binoculars in one hand and a cold drink in the other and scan the watering hole, where there is a good chance of a Saddle-billed or African Woolly-necked Stork dropping in, and an outside chance of a Pied-winged Swallow coming in to drink or hawk over the pools. Our extended stay here gives us a chance to search for thinly distributed species such as the Emin’s Shrike, Gambaga Flycatcher and Yellow-throated Greenbul.

In the evenings we’ll stay out until dark to look for Greyish Eagle-Owls, African Scops and possibly Northern White-faced Owls, and Freckled and Long-tailed Nightjars. In some years the Standard-winged Nightjar is also present. During the heat of the day there will be time for a swim and cool down in the pool, easily the best place to watch raptors drifting overhead; Bateleur, Martial, Wahlberg’s and Tawny Eagles to Palm-nut, White-headed and White-backed Vultures are all possible. Nights at Zaina Lodge.

Day 13:  After a final few hours birding around Mole, we’ll begin our journey back toward the more humid south. There will undoubtedly be birds along the road, but our main aim will be to reach Bobiri in time for a few hours of birding. Late afternoon targets could include the Long-tailed Hawk and Dwarf Hornbills if needed. As dusk falls we stand another chance of locating the Brown Nightjar. Night in Kumasi.

Day 14:  We begin with an early visit to Bobiri butterfly reserve. This stretch of forest is rich in bird life, and specialties may include the Narina Trogon, Red-chested Cuckoo, Blue-headed Crested Flycatchers, Red-billed Dwarf Hornbills, Tambourine Dove, Cassin’s Honeyguide, Lemon-bellied Crombec and Purple-throated Cuckooshrike. It is also perhaps the most reliable site for the Grey Parrot, a species sadly in sharp decline over much of its range. After a morning’s birding we’ll continue south, stopping for lunch en route, before arriving at Atewa for a relaxed afternoon’s birding in the farmland scrub area at the foot of the escarpment. The habitat here is degraded but may still offer a few choice species such as the Western Bluebill, Black-bellied Seedcracker, Magpie Mannikin and Blue-headed Coucal. If needed, we can also stay until dark to try for Fraser’s Eagle-Owl. Night near Atewa.

Day 15: We’ll have an early start from our hotel to reach the forested Atewa Hhills, which cover an area of over 23,000ha and features some excellent forest and correspondingly varied birdlife. Accessing the best forest requires a steady uphill walk for about two hours, and we’ll concentrate on reaching the best areas as soon as we can and spending the whole day up in the forest. The main target will be the stunning Blue-moustached Bee-eater at one of its few reliable sites in Ghana. Atewa is also home to the very rare Nimba Flycatcher, but this would require a great deal of good luck. Similarly, the near-legendary Western Wattled Cuckooshrike is also thought to be present. However, we’ll certainly be satisfied with what else is on offer; the Brown-cheeked Hornbill and Afep Pigeon are both present, as are the Rufous-winged Illadopsis, Brown-chested Alethe, Red-fronted Antpecker (rare), West African Batis, African Shrike-Flycatcher, Chestnut-winged Starling, Chestnut-capped Flycatcher, Olive-long-tailed Cuckoo and Crowned Eagle, among many others. Night near Atewa.

Day 16: This morning we’ll return to Atewa to climb the trail at a much slower pace, stopping to search for those species we bypassed yesterday and trying to fill in any last-minute gaps on our list. The Red-chested Owlet is present here, as is the Chocolate-backed Kingfisher, the Western Bronze-naped Pigeon and the Brown, Blackcap and Puvel’s Illadopsis. We’ll then head back for a late lunch at our hotel, followed by an opportunity for a shower and final packing before an evening transfer to Accra airport, where the tour concludes.

2023 Narrative

In Summary:  Ghana ranks high on the list of African birding destinations thanks to a combination of good infrastructure, excellent forest reserves, a well-established birding circuit, and a bird list approaching 800 species. Our October Ghana tour ended with great success, with ten species of kingfishers, eleven species of hornbills, seventeen species of sunbirds, and a number of new species for the tour such as Wahlberg’s Honeyguide (6^th record forGhana), the localized Baumann’s Greenbul, Dorst’s Cisticola, and Fiery-breasted Bushshrike. It comes as no surprise that White-necked Rockfowl ranked first in the group’s Top 5 birds! Blue-moustached Bee-eater, Nkulengu Rail, Red-cheeked Wattle-eye, and Red-fronted Antpecker followed close behind. Overall, it was an excellent trip.

In Detail:  After an early breakfast we made the short drive over to the Shai Hills, an area of inselbergs, dry woodland, and savannah. Pulling into the gate we had our first mammal, a troop of Olive Baboons patrolling the main road hoping for handouts. From the reception area, we began walking a dirt road where we had our first taste of West African birding. A pair of Levaillant’s Cuckoos were found right off the bat along with some of the commonspecies in this habitat: flocks of Violet-backed Starlings, Vinaceous Dove, African Gray Hornbill, Brown-throated Wattle-eye, and Splendid Sunbird. A pair of Buff-spotted Woodpeckers flew in, but played hard to get, a Lizard Buzzard was spotted flying over, and Stone Partridges were calling from the tall grass. Further up the road we added the vibrant Violet and Guinea Turacos as well as their cousin the Western Plantain-eater, plus Senegal Batis, Black-crowned Tchagra, Yellow-crowned Gonolek, a trio of Senegal Eremomelas, Olive-naped Weaver, and an elusive Western Bluebill. From the thick tangles we had small groups of both Brown and Blackcap Babblers bouncing from one shrubby area to the next while a Puvel’s Illadopsis called from deep within. On the mammal side, some folks spotted a Bushbuck crossing the road and we all had great views of a Kob.

Once it started to warm up, we hopped into the vehicle and continued working our way toward some bat caves. Along the way we added Flappet Lark, Croaking Cisticola, Spotted Flycatcher, and Plain-backed Pipit. Among the bat caves we were able to get a response from an African Barred Owlet, but it stayed a couple layers back. In the caves we saw a few dozen tomb bats roosting in a large crevice.

After a successful morning, we headed back to our hotel for lunch and had Bar-breasted Firefinches and Copper Sunbirds in the garden. We then headed off for the long drive towards Kakum National Park, where we’d spend the next few nights. Along the way we visited the Winneba coastal lagoon, which supports migrant and resident shorebirds and terns. Upon arrival we were greeted by Western Reef-Heron, Black-winged Stilts, Whimbrel, Common Sandpiper, and plenty of Sanderlings running around the sandy banks. A couple roosting flocks of shorebirds consisted of Black-bellied, Common Ringed, and White-fronted Plovers, Ruddy Turnstone, and Common Greenshank. Common and West African Crested Terns were the most common terns within the tern flock, while a few Sandwich and singletons of Little and Black mixed in. Pied Kingfishers made several passes and, on our way out, we added a small group of Curlew Sandpipers, several Spur-winged Lapwings, and a several of Piapiacs.

The following morning a Giant Kingfisher greeted us after breakfast as we loaded up the vehicle before heading a short way down the road to Kakum National Park. This park protects 375 square miles of rainforest and was the focus of our attention for the next several days. What makes this park even more special is the existence of a canopy walkway, the only one of its kind in West Africa. From the walkway you can spot birds that would otherwise be nearly impossible to see from the dense cover below and we spent the whole morning on the canopy walkway tallying nearly 70 species! We walked the trail up to the start of the walkway making a stop to enjoy a very cooperative Rufous-sided Broadbill, which proceeded to do several acrobatic aerial displays.

From 120ft up the canopy, we enjoyed a 360° view of the canopy. We quickly started picking up an abundance of birds including our first views of the more common African Green-Pigeon, Blue Malkoha, West African Pied Hornbill, Hairy-breasted Barbet, Speckled Tinkerbird, Black-winged Oriole, Velvet-mantled Drongo, Fanti Sawwing, Red-headed Malimbe, Maxwell’s Black Weaver, and White-breasted Nigrita. Over time and with some extra effort listening and scanning the treetops, we added Cassin’s and Willcocks’s Honeyguides, Melancholy Woodpecker, Violet-backed Hyliota, Lemon-bellied Crombec, a family group of Rufous-crowned Eremomelas, Sharpe’s Apalis, Ussher’s and Olivaceous Flycatchers, and a selection of sunbirds including Tiny and Johanna’s. We also had our first taste of the greenbul family where we focused on their calls. We tried picking some out of the canopy, and had good views of Slender-billed, Golden, and Honeyguide while Western Bearded, Little, Yellow-whiskered, and White-throated were heard below. On the raptor front, African Harrier-Hawks were prevalent along with a single Ayers’s Hawk-Eagle, a couple distant Palm-nut Vultures, and a Congo Serpent-Eagle, which could be heard calling, but never made an appearance.

After spending the morning on the canopy walkway, we headed back to our lodging for lunch. After an afternoon break, we returned to the canopy walkway to see if we could pull anything new out and managed to see some Black-casqued and Brown-cheeked Hornbills flying around, have great views of Bristle-nosed Barbet, and a couple Chestnut-winged Starlings. We stayed near the parking lot until dusk for our first attempt at some of the local eagle-owls, but only had dusk chorus of Olive Long-tailed Cuckoos and a calling White-spotted Flufftail.

The next morning was spent birding slowly along a dirt track not far from the canopy walkway. Yellow-billed Turacos showed very well, and we had excellent views of Western Dwarf Hornbill, Blue-throated Roller, Fire-bellied Woodpecker, Chocolate-backed Kingfisher, and Naked-faced Barbet. Malimbes also made an exceptional showing with Red-vented, Blue-billed, Crested, and Red-headed all being seen. One of the real highlights of the walk was a Long-tailed Hawk. We were able to appreciate its long tail as it flew over the canopy. Elsewhere along the road we added several Red-billed Helmetshrikes and a flock of Chestnut-capped Flycatchers along with a Cassin’s Spinetail flying over the canopy.

After lunch back at our accommodation, and an afternoon break, we returned to the same dirt track where we poked around and relaxed until nightfall. While waiting, a Western Long-tailed Hornbill was a nice find and we heard yet another Congo Serpent-Eagle calling off in the distance. Right after nightfall we began our effort for the various owls that call this forest home. We had a pair of African Wood Owls calling right along the track, while a Nkulengu Rail simultaneously started calling from deep within the rainforest. In a few days, we would spend some time tracking down this rare and elusive rail. Soon after, another individual started calling from the other side of the road building up everyone’s anticipation.

After considerable success in the forest, we spent some time the next day checking out several sites that consisted of mainly farm bush, scrub, and forest edge. Before reaching our first stop, a small village had over a thousand swallows roosting on the powerlines including no fewer than a thousand Preuss’s Swallows, with a few Barn and Ethiopian Swallows mixed in. At our first spot, the farm bush provided Blue-headed Coucal, Whistling Cisticola, Kemp’s Longbill, Black-and-white Shrike-Flycatcher, Lowland Sooty Boubou, two petite African Pygmy Kingfishers, and an absolutely gorgeous Red-cheeked Wattle-eye! A Black Bee-eater also stole the show along with our first Gray Parrots, which screeched overhead. On the raptor front, Cassin’s Hawk-Eagle, Red-necked Buzzard, and Gray Kestrel all made an appearance.

The second half of the day was spent in another area of farm bush and scrub where we added Simple Greenbul, Gray-headed Bristlebill, Northern Yellow White-eye, and Mosque Swallow among others. We also had our best views yet of the stunning Buff-throated Sunbird, and had time to enjoy a large mixed colony of Naked-faced and Bristle-nosed Barbets, which had taken up residence in a large dead tree.

The next day was mostly a travel day, but we broke up the drive with some birding en route to our destination. First up, we spent nearly 2.5 hours along the road towards Brenu Beach. Before reaching the grasslands, we stopped in front of some houses with well-vegetated yards and ended up having several new trip-species in rapid-fire succession. Yellow-crowned Gonolek, Dideric Cuckoo, Marsh Tchagra, Red-faced and Singing Cisticolas, Northern Red Bishops, Yellow-mantled Widowbird, Black-rumped Waxbills along with Wilson’s Indigobirds and more of their parasitic hosts, Bar-breasted Firefinches. Among the many swifts and swallows was a Mottled Spinetail.

Further up the road we added Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat, Double-spurred Spurfowl, and Black-winged Kite before walking off the main road onto a sidetrack. Here we called in the localized Baumann’s Greenbul, which immediately responded and made a couple quick flights, but didn’t cooperate very well. Overhead our first Hooded Vultures joined the omnipresent Yellow-billed Kites while a flock of 50 White-faced Whistling-Ducks circled overhead.

We had lunch along the coast where we enjoyed some bonus shorebirding. We had a nice flyby of two Bar-tailed Godwits before continuing down the road a short distance to target Mouse-brown Sunbird. It didn’t take long before we spotted a couple of these unique sunbirds. Our final stop before reaching our lodge was a small wetland, which hosted Orange Weavers among the more common Chestnut-and-black Weavers along with our first Common Moorhens and Little Grebes. After an exciting hour traversing an incredibly muddy track in a couple 4x4s, we arrived at our brand-new accommodation right at the edge of the expansive Ankasa National Park, our home for the next three nights.

Our first full morning in Ankasa was spent focusing on several forested swamps. The first waterhole was the most productive, producing a Shining-blue and the smaller White-bellied Kingfisher along with a White-tailed Alethe that took a bath in a stream, offering excellent views of its white outer tail feathers and rufous crown.

Above the water a Black Bee-eater appeared and sat on an exposed branch offering extended scope views and photographic opportunities. The second swamp didn’t produce anything new, but the final swamp had a pair of Black-bellied Seedcrackers, which appeared to be nesting in the immediate vicinity. Other new birds detected this morning were Shining Drongo, White-tailed Ant-Thrush, and plenty of greenbuls including Green-tailed Bristlebill, Red-tailed Greenbul, and White-bearded Greenbul.  We took a short break after lunch, which was conveniently when it rained. In between showers, the gardens around the lodge produced our first Square-tailed Sawwings and our best views of Reichenbach’s Sunbirds consisting of three individuals chasing each other around. After the rain let up, we birded until dusk to try our luck at the bizarre Nkulengu Rail.

These birds, despite being rails, roost high up on branches together. Once they gave their namesake song, the local drivers and ranger took off running to track them down before they stopped calling. While waiting for them to return to lead the way, an African Wood Owl called not too far away. Shortly later we had confirmation that they had found the roosting birds, and we were soon rewarded to superb views of five birds huddled together on a branch over our heads. As if this wasn’t enough, we picked up an Akun Eagle-Owl right across the entrance to our lodge… an excellent ending to the day.

Our second day in Ankasa, we began along the two-track in forest where we quickly picked up a couple Red-billed Dwarf-Hornbills up in the canopy giving their haunting calls. Further along the road we spotted a Blue-headed Wood-Dove and Tambourine Dove sharing a puddle in the middle of the track. We then focused our attention on a productive trail where we finally saw an Orange-breasted Forest Robin after many attempts along with the Upper Guinean endemic Yellow-bearded Greenbul. Blackcap and Pale-breasted Illadopsis called from a distance, but we did manage to track down a Rufous-winged Illadopsis, another Upper Guinean endemic.

We tried once again for Gray-throated Rail at a traditional site but received no response. We did pick up on our first views of Spotted Greenbul as it played hard to get over our heads. By now the skies darkened and the rain had started so we worked our way back to the lodge. The sun briefly shined through long enough to allow us to spot an Olive Long-tailed Cuckoo, which had been a heard-only up until now. After lunch the plan was to head back into the forest, but that was hindered by heavy rainfall, which lasted the rest of the afternoon through the early evening. Before dark, some of the group had Cassin’s Flycatcher on the stream behind the accommodation and after dark we had a Fraser’s Eagle-Owl calling.

The weather greatly improved for our final morning of birding around Ankasa. The two-track through the forest was far muddier than before and at one point we had to stop the land rovers and rescue a Dwarf Crocodile to drive forward. It was likely hunting frogs in the flooded road. Rufous-crowned Eremomelas, Red-tailed Bristlebill, and Black-capped Apalis were added to our growing list along with a surprise pair of Red-fronted Antpeckers, a very challenging species to catch up with! We had extended views of both the male and a female. Great Blue Turacos were also heard from a distance as their load raucous calls can travel great distance. While working our way back out on the two-track to pack up our things and move on, we made one last ditch effort for Red-chested Owlet and were rewarded with extended views of this tiny owl.

We birded some farmbush on the edge of Kakum National Park the following morning. The birding was very productive with a nice variety of birds including Vieillot’s Barbets, White-spotted Flufftails, West African Wattle-eye, Lowland Sooty Boubou, Gray Longbill, and Puvell’s Illadopsis. Continuing inland, we made a brief stop along the Pra River adding White-throated Blue Swallow and Magpie Mannikin.

We eventually made it to our community-run accommodation in the village of Bonkro where the local population hosts birders. Ecotourism in this area helps protect the population of White-necked Rockfowl. This is an incredible success story where the forest bordering the village was protected from imminent logging and the community now benefits from the tourism. We checked into our accommodation and set off before dinner for one of, if not the, highlight bird of the tour. Rockfowl, also known as picathartes, nest on rock overhangs in rainforests. We positioned ourselves on a homemade bench and waited for them to return to the boulder to roost for the night. It didn’t take too long before we had superb views of three individuals pouncing around the boulder. A truly magical experience!

After a full traveling day, we arrived at Mole National Park in the evening where we had time to check in and relax before dinner. We were now in northern Ghana, which is characterized by savanna and, with that, a whole host of new species that utilizes mosaics of scrubby woodlands and grasslands. This park is also home to a good diversity of mammals, so anticipation was high for the next couple days.

After breakfast the next morning we headed north, stopping just north of camp where we had our first taste of birding in Mole. Sahal Bush Sparrows, Long-tailed Glossy Starlings, and Northern Red-billed Hornbills were common as were the striking Red-throated Bee-eaters, which were continuously flying overhead in small flocks. We managed to pick out a couple Northern Carmine Bee-eaters as well. Before hopping back into the vehicle, we had Red-headed Lovebird, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Northern Black Flycatcher, White-shouldered Black-Tit, Red-winged Pytilia, and a selection of migrants such as Whinchat and European Pied Flycatcher. Much to our surprise, a pair of Black-faced Firefinches were working the road edge along with a Red-billed Firefinch and Lavender Waxbill. Driving further north we added Black Scimitarbill, the wacky Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Hamerkop, and a host of raptors namely Bateleur and Dark Chanting-Goshawk. We eventually arrived at an open grassland area where we tried our first attempt at finding Forbes’s Plover. Nothing yet, but we did pick up several Sun Larks. On the drive back to camp for lunch, we stumbled upon a Wahlberg’s Honeyguide, which is about the 6^th record for Ghana.

After lunch and an afternoon break during the heat of the day, we drove over to a pond where birds tend to congregate. We were soon joined by the likes of Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike, Red-winged Prinia, Northern Crombec, Willow Warbler, colorful Pygmy and Beautiful Sunbirds, a Gosling Bunting, and of course a Pearl-spotted Owlet, which had responded to our tape. We then headed back to the open grassland area to try our luck for the Forbes’s Plover. Late evening meant that the temperature was better and after quite a bit of searching, a couple Sun Larks, and a stunning Exclamatory Paradise-Whydah later, we eventually found a pair working an area of bare ground. Success! It was nearly dusk now, so we lingered a bit longer and obtained excellent views of Long-tailed Nightjars and heard an African Scops-Owl. On the drive back to camp we spotted a few Standard-winged Nightjars along the road and no fewer than ten Grayish Eagle-Owls!

Of course, Mole isn’t all about birds. Some of our other highlights included Patas Monkeys, Savanna Hare, Common Warthogs, Striped Ground Squirrels, Rainbow Skinks, and a bonus Senegal Chameleon crossing the road.

We began the next morning at the Mole Airstrip for an attempt at White-throated Francolin. Although it did not cooperate this time around, we did add Green Woodhoopoe, Rufous and Dorst’s Cisticolas, Yellow-billed Shrike, and some very cooperative Bearded Barbets to our list. At a nearby waterhole, we had African Woolly-necked Storks, Spur-winged Geese, White-backed Vultures, Black-headed Weavers, Broad-billed Roller, Senegal Thick-Knee, and breeding-plumaged Yellow-crowned Bishops along with a West African Crocodile.

After lunch we took a short walk through a dry forest adding Fine-spotted and Brown-backed Woodpeckers, and Gray Tit-Flycatcher while driving the gravel roads yielded Slender-tailed and Gambian Mongoose. Before dusk, we made a good effort to find our final two target species in the area. We quickly found White-fronted Black Chat and then back at the Mole Airstrip, we heard, but didn’t see, a group of White-throated Francolins. We did, however, find a Northern White-faced Owl and Yellow-winged Bat.

The next day was another travel day as we worked our way back south. Everyone in the group had previously seen Egyptian Plover, so we opted to skip the extensive detour for this species in order to get to our next accommodation in good time. Along the way we stopped on the edge of a village for a very cooperative Blue-bellied Roller sitting on the powerline, our only one of the tour. With the additional time gained from not detouring for the plover, we were able to check into our hotel and then head to the Bobiri Butterfly Sanctuary for dusk where we recorded Fraser’s and Akun Eagle-Owls and the deep-forest loving Brown Nightjar.

We returned to Bobiri Butterfly Sanctuary the following day to spend the morning slowly birding the road through the forest. By now having spent a lot of time birding other forests including Ankasa and Kakum, we enjoyed a lot of repeat views of species we had previously seen. This didn’t stop us from finding new species, however, as we added Brown-necked Parrot, Forest Scimitarbill, and Gray-throated Tit-Flycatcher along with a heard-only African Piculet. A real surprise was a Spotted Blind Snake that we discovered along the road. After a pizza picnic back at the headquarters, we jumped back into the vehicle and headed to our next destination.

The following morning promised to be an exciting day with a couple big targets on our wish list: Blue-moustached Bee-Eater and Nimba Flycatcher. Both of these species require an upward climb at a steady pace in order to reach the prime area on top of the Atewa Range before it becomes hot and quiet, which would greatly decrease our chances. We set off in the early morning and climbed our way up making few stops with the exception to try for a Yellow-throated Cuckoo, which simply wouldn’t come in for views. Once we reached the top, the birding quickly picked up. Careful scanning in the canopy picked out Purple-throated Cuckooshrike, Forest Penduline-Tit, and Green Sunbird. Continuing along the ridgetop trail we added West African Batis, Narina Trogon, Little Flycatcher, and a heard-only Forest Scrub-Robin. A real surprise was a stunning Fiery-breasted Bushshrike, a rare species in Ghana. This was quickly forgotten when we found several Blue-moustached Bee-eaters with at least one sitting on an exposed vine for an extended amount of time. These are without a doubt one of the most astonishing bee-eaters in Africa.

By now the sun was high in the sky and it was warm out. Despite a lot of effort, we did not stumble upon a Nimba Flycatcher. Still, we were elated with such a successful morning and worked our way back down the mountain. Just before reaching the vehicle, which was waiting for us, we added Compact Weaver and Little Bee-eater in the farmbush. We had been in Ghana for a couple weeks now, which allowed us to focus on new species only, while also enjoying the songs and calls of species we had already seen. Along the way we were busy pointing out every vocal bird, which pushed our day list to an impressive 115 species!

Sadly, the next day was our final day of the tour. Since we had quickly walked up the Atewa Range the previous morning, we returned today to enjoy the lower reaches of the trail at a slower pace. We had a relaxing morning, enjoying excellent views of African Emerald Cuckoo, Chocolate-backed Kingfisher, Double-toothed Barbet and others before we headed back towards the capital city of Accra and our evening flights home.

Despite the occasional power outage or cold shower, it was a very rewarding and successful tour seeing nearly all our targets and adding a decent number of new species to the cumulative Ghana checklist. Of course, the White-necked Rockfowl was rated top bird of the tour by the group, with Blue-moustached Bee-eater coming in second.

-          Ethan Kistler

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