Indonesia: West Papua

The island of New Guinea is surely one of the most exciting birding destinations on Earth. The array of monarchs, honeyeaters, fruit-doves, kingfishers, and parrots are thrilling in their own right, but the otherworldly birds-of-paradise are without doubt the most superlative avian wonders to be found anywhere. Our tour of one of the world’s most biodiverse regions is not luxurious, but conditions have greatly improved over the last few years. It’s nothing like the uncomfortable challenge that it once was. Many local people have become involved in providing relatively comfortable birding experiences to foreign visitors, and the revenue from our visit directly helps conservation efforts in these very important bird havens.

We’ll explore the western half of New Guinea, a part of Indonesia, and in particular the provinces of Papua. Here we’ll encounter many species of bird-of-paradise which are unique to West Papua—birds such as Western Parotia, Vogelkop Lophorina, Long-tailed Paradigalla, and Red Bird-of-Paradise will surely get our pulses racing, but the amazing Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise is definitely the jewel in the crown.  

We’ll explore five exceptionally bird-rich areas in West Papua. We’ll start on the small northern island of Biak, which harbors a startling twelve endemics, all of which we will hope to see. From there we’ll travel further east to the steamy lowland coastal area of Nimbokrang in search of local specialties such as Twelve-wired BoP, Papuan Nightjar and Pale-billed Sicklebill. Next stop is the Central Highlands where we’ll be based in the isolated town of Wamena in the cool highlands from where we’ll explore the legendary Baliem Valley, home to the Dani people and only discovered by the outside world in 1938. As we explore the forests over a varied altitudinal range, we’ll observe a fascinating array of unique wildlife, including the highly sought-after MacGregor’s Honeyeater, so fancy that until very recently it was thought to be a bird-of-paradise. In the remote Arfak Mountains, we’ll be based at a local village which has become a mecca for birders! The villagers have set up an amazing series of hides enabling close views of such spectacular birds as Western Parotia, Vogelkop and Masked Bowerbirds, and the stunning Black Sicklebill. Lastly we’ll spend time on the western island of Waigeo, home to a number of endemics including Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise.

Even seasoned birders who have explored the eastern half of New Guinea find West Papua thrilling. This region is home to over 300 New Guinea endemic species, including 25 birds-of-paradise. Remarkably, West Papua boasts seven endemic bird families. In short, it’s simply amazing.

Day 1: The tour begins this evening in the lobby of our hotel in Jakarta, Java, Indonesia. Night in Jakarta.

Days 2-5: We’ll fly from Jakarta to the island of Biak in the Geelvink Bay, recently renamed Cenderawasih Bay (meaning “bird-of-paradise” in Indonesian). After a short drive to an area of secondary forest on the island’s east side, we’ll start our birding, concentrating mainly on the endemics: Biak Lorikeet, Biak Hooded Pitta, Biak Triller, Biak Black Flycatcher, and Biak White-eye. With determination, we should also find the secretive Biak Coucal, Biak Paradise Kingfisher, and the tiny Geelvink Pygmy Parrot. The scarcer endemics, Biak Gerygone, Biak Monarch, and Biak Leaf Warbler may require a bit more effort, but we’ll persevere. More common targets include Gurney’s Eagle, Great Cuckoo-Dove, Claret-breasted Fruit Dove, Black-winged Lory, Red-fronted Lorikeet, Hooded Butcherbird, Common Cicadabird, Shining Flycatcher, Long-tailed Starling, and Red-capped Flowerpecker. Biak also hosts a number of more widespread species represented by endemic subspecies; amongst them are Asian Emerald Dove, Spice Imperial Pigeon (sometimes split as Geelvink Imperial Pigeon), Northern Fantail, and Golden Monarch. Night in Biak.

Day 6: This morning we’ll take an early flight to Jayapura then transfer to Nimbokrang on the north coast of West Papua at the base of the Cyclops Mountains. This is a great area for lowland birding and several species of bird-of-paradise occur here, including Pale-billed Sicklebill and Lesser Bird-of-Paradise. Other possibilities include a chance to see the improbable Twelve-wired Bird-of-Paradise at its display tree. Night in Nimbokrang.

Days 7-8: We’ll bird along the famous Jalan Korea, a now unused logging track that provides access to excellent forest that is home to a number of localized species such as Western Black-capped Lory, Lowland Peltops, Buff-faced Pygmy Parrot, White-eared Catbird, Brown-headed Crow, Jobi Manucode, and—requiring special effort and good luck—Shovel-billed Kingfisher. For species such as Northern Cassowary and Brown-collared Brush-turkey, we’ll take side trips off the road on trails into the swamp forest. On a road in the foothills south of Nimbokrang, an entirely different set of birds can be found, including Zoe Imperial Pigeon, Salvadori’s Fig-Parrot, Yellow-bellied Longbill, Green-backed Gerygone, and Golden Myna, while Papuan Nightjar can often be seen from the road at dusk. Further along the road as we drop down into a valley, we have a chance to find Victoria-crowned Pigeon, as well as Blue Jewel-babbler and Hooded Monarch. In the forest behind our accommodation, there are known sites for King Bird-of-Paradise and with luck, maybe even Vulturine Parrot, which is every bit as impressive as its name suggests. Nights in Nimbokrang.

Day 9: This morning we’ll return to Jayapura for our flight to Wamena, the largest town in the Baliem Valley in the central highlands of Papua. Upon arrival we’ll check into our hotel, then proceed by four-wheel-drive vehicles into the Baliem Valley at the base of the Snow Mountains. Traveling along winding roads, we’ll stop frequently to search the impressive forest for the many unique and special birds that inhabit this remote corner of the world. Later in the evening, we’ll return to Wamena, our base for the next three nights. Night in Wamena.

Days 10-11: Against the backdrop of Mount Trikora—at more than 15,000 feet elevation, one of the highest mountains in the region—we’ll spend the next three days birding the gorgeous high-altitude grasslands surrounding Lake Habbema. One of our most-hoped-for targets will be the remarkable MacGregor’s Honeyeater, formerly thought to be a bird-of-paradise. The huge Snow Mountain Quail can often be flushed from the grasslands, as we walk in search of Snow Mountain Munia, Mountain Firetail, and Alpine Pipit. As we bird on foot or by car, we may encounter both Sooty and Short-bearded Melidectes, Orange-cheeked Honeyeaters, and Lorentz’s Whistlers in the alpine brush. The scarce, high-altitude Salvadori’s Teal can be found on the lakeshore, and at dusk we’ll be on the lookout for displaying New Guinea Woodcock and perhaps even the rare Archbold’s Nightjar.

We’ll also take the vehicles down to lower altitudes to search for a whole set of different birds including New Guinea Logrunner, Lesser Melampitta, and Lesser Ground Robin. As we descend, we’ll notice marked changes in the avifauna, so even lower down the road we may find such beauties as Splendid Astrapia, Brown Sicklebill, Black Sittella, Loria’s Satinbird, Garnet Robin, Crested Berrypecker, Rufous-naped Bellbird, Papuan Treecreeper, Rufous-throated Bronze Cuckoo, Brehm’s Tiger Parrot, Mountain Mouse-Warbler, Black-breasted Boatbills, and many more. Nights in Wamena.

Day 12: This morning we’ll take an early flight from Wamena to Jayapura where we’ll overnight but we’ll spend the afternoon exploring the grasslands and the northern shore of picturesque Lake Sentani, where we’ll look for Fawn-breasted Bowerbird and Grand and Hooded Munias. We may also find Brown Quail, Buff-banded Rail, and Rufous-tailed Bush-hen on the roadsides, while Dusky Moorhen and Comb-crested Jacana can be seen on the lakeshore. Channel-billed Cuckoo, Rainbow Bee-eater, Dollarbird, Pacific Swallow, Tree Martin, White-bellied Cuckooshrike, and White-breasted Woodswallow can often be seen flying around while Pied Bush-chat, Papuan Grassbird, Golden-headed Cisticola, White-shouldered Fairy-wren, Scrub Honeyeater, and Chestnut-breasted Munia have made the grasslands their home. Night in Sentani

Day 13: We’ll take an early flight to Manokwari on the northwest coast of the island of New Guinea and drive directly into the Arfak Mountains—a drive of about two hours. We’ll drop our luggage off at our forest lodge—a very simple but comfortable and clean affair set in lush, epiphyte-laden cloud forest with incredible birding right on our doorstep. After a tasty lunch prepared by the local ladies, we’ll don our birding gear and head up the road for our first looks at some Arfak endemics, including the remarkable Vogelkop Bowerbird with its impressively and colorfully decorated bower. Bronze Ground Dove sometimes comes into the bower, and forest birds such as Rufescent Imperial Pigeon, Yellow-billed Lorikeets, Blue-collared Parrot, White-eared Bronze Cuckoo, Grey-green Scrubwren, White-rumped Robin, Hooded Pitohui, Olive-crowned Flowerpecker, Black-fronted White-eye, Rufous-sided Honeyeater, and Mountain Meliphaga can be seen near the lodge or along the roadsides. Night in Mokwam.

Days 14-16: We’ll spend the next three days exploring the trails and roadsides for the many Arfak specialties. The local people have in recent years put a great deal of effort into making their amazing birdlife more accessible to visitors. Well-kept trails will lead us to a number of strategically placed hides where we’ll wait for and observe the highly sought-after endemics, including Black Sicklebill and Western Parotia, as well as the recently split Vogelkop Lophorina (formerly called Superb Bird-of-Paradise). We’ll station ourselves at these various hides to observe the bowerbird attending his bower, the sicklebill and lophorina showing off their remarkable displays, and the parotia spinning in its whirling-dervish dance.

There are a host of other exciting birds in the area, and with luck we may find the scarce and exotically named Long-tailed Paradigalla, another bird-of-paradise. The area is well represented by whistlers with Dwarf, Sclater’s, and the endemic Vogelkop all possible. Vogelkop Catbirds sometimes come into the bird-of-paradise dance grounds but are soon detected by their meowing calls. Black Monarch, the rather plain but endemic Vogelkop Scrubwren, Black Pitohui, and Red-breasted Pygmy Parrot are all also possible, as is the more secretive, ground-dwelling Spotted Jewel-babbler. Our local guide is highly skilled at tracking down both the Feline and Vogelkop Owlet-Nightjars, so we’ll have our fingers crossed for sightings of these remarkable nightbirds.

Around our lodge, we’ll have a good chance of seeing Orange-crowned Fairywren and Smoky and Ashy Robins, and attractive Tit Berrypeckers can sometimes be found in fruiting bushes. Along the roadside Western Smoky Honeyeater, as well as another type of honeyeater—the Melidectes, represented by Cinnamon-browed and the endemic Vogelkop—can be seen. Nights in Mokwam.

Day 17: After morning birding to conclude our stay in this lush forest, we’ll head back to the city of Manokwari in preparation for our early flight tomorrow. En route we’ll stop to search for Masked Bowerbird, a recent split from Flame Bowerbird, that favors lower elevations closer to the city. Night in Manokwari.

Day 18: We’ll take the morning flight to Sorong and transfer to the ferry for our short trip over to the island of Waigeo, which lies just north of the tip of the Vogelkop (Bird’s Head) Peninsula. Depending on the ferry schedule, we should have plenty of time to commence our birding explorations. Night in Waisai.

Days 19-20: Waigeo is home to one of the world’s most amazing birds, Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise. Again, thanks to the efforts of a number of smart local farmers, we can visit rainforest hides that allow close-up views of the male busy at work, attracting females to his dancing grounds. It’s truly an unforgettable experience! While we watch the birds-of-paradise, we may be distracted by trilling Common Paradise Kingfishers and pretty Black-sided Robins.

An added bonus is the Red Bird of Paradise, endemic to the islands of Batanta and Waigeo, and we can watch them displaying early in the morning from viewing hides constructed high in a tree, allowing literally a bird’s eye view! 

Other birds that we may see include the shy Pheasant Pigeon, and with luck, we may find one foraging on the forest floor. Along the roadsides we’ll keep an eye overhead for Purple-tailed Imperial Pigeons—feeding high in fruiting trees—Pygmy Eagle, Great-billed Parrot, and Torresian Crow amongst others. Lower down in the thick forest the endemic Raja Ampat Pitohui, belonging to a group of birds with poisonous feathers, is happily common. Other mid-level birds include the Pale-billed Scrubwren, Frilled Monarch, Grey Whistler, Puff-backed Meliphaga, and Tawny-breasted and Spotted Honeyeaters while Yellow-capped Pygmy Parrot can sometimes be seen working the tree trunks like a nuthatch or a creeper. On the forest floor we may spy Dusky Megapode and Papuan Pitta. It’s also highly likely that we’ll find the very cute Waigeo Cuscus, a bear-like opossum, on the grounds of our accommodation. Nights in Waisai.

Day 21-22: We’ll take the midday ferry back to Sorong, and later in the afternoon we’ll visit an area of mangroves close to the city in search of the gorgeous Blue-black Kingfisher, as well as Black Thicket-Fantail. Other possibilities here include Spotted Whistling Duck, Orange-fronted Fruit Dove, Collared Imperial Pigeon, Lesser Black Coucal, Orange-breasted Fig Parrot, Brown-backed Honeyeater, Large-billed Gerygone, White-bellied Cuckooshrike, and Willie Wagtail. Night in Sorong.

Day 23:  We’ll leave our lodging early to explore a stretch of hilly lowland forest close to Sorong. If we failed to see it at Nimbokrang, we’ll start by looking for the amazing Twelve-wired Bird-of-Paradise, which with luck we may see displaying at dawn. We’ll keep a look out for the endemic Black Lory and make an effort to find the attractive-but-shy Red-breasted Paradise-Kingfisher. The long list of spectacular birds here also includes Long-tailed Honey Buzzard, Pink-spotted Fruit Dove, Dwarf Koel, Long-billed Cuckoo, Moustached Treeswift, Hook-billed Kingfisher, Rufous-bellied Kookaburra, Yellow-billed Kingfisher, impressive Blyth’s Hornbill, and Palm Cockatoo. Coconut Lorikeet commonly zip raucously overhead, as the harsh calls of Red-cheeked and Eclectus Parrots announce their presence. If we hear Eastern Hooded Pitta, we’ll station ourselves in place to get a glimpse of this ground-dwelling gem. The appropriately named Emperor Fairywren can be seen flitting amongst thick undergrowth while a rich diversity of the Meliphagidae can also be found, represented by Streak-headed and Tawny-breasted Honeyeaters, New Guinea Friarbird, and Long-billed, Mimic, and Yellow-gaped Meliphagas. Night in Sorong.

Day 24: We’ll return to Sorong around midday for our onward flights to Denpasar, Bali, and to Jakarta, where the tour concludes.

2024 Narrative

The West Papua WINGS tour of 2024 began in Jakarta with birding at Muara Angke Wildlife Reserve, where we observed 42 species including the endangered Milky Stork and endemic Sunda Coucal. Our explorations of Papua began on Biak Island, known for its unique avifauna like the Biak Paradise Kingfisher and Biak Coucal. In Jayapura, additional birding in grasslands revealed species such as the Grand Munia and White-winged Fairywren. In Wamena, the diverse habitats yielded remarkable sightings of endemic species like the Greater Lophorina and Modest Tiger-Parrot. Nimbokrang offered encounters with rare birds including the Twelve-wired, Lesser and King Birds-of-Paradise. The tour proceeded to the Arfak Mountains, where highlights included the Western Parotia and Black Sicklebill. Waigeo Island provided views of the unforgettable Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise and Red Bird-of-Paradise. And finally, in Sorong, we enjoyed sightings of the Black Lory and Blue-and-black Kingfisher, concluding our trip featuring a spectacular display of West Papua’s avian diversity.

Jakarta

Our tour commenced in Jakarta, with the group assembling at the Swiss-Belhotel near Soekarno-Hatta International Airport. With several hours to spare before our scheduled red-eye flight to West Papua, we allocated the day to birding at the Muara Angke Wildlife Reserve. This 25-hectare reserve, situated on the northern coast of Jakarta, is a critical habitat for several species of conservation concern, including the Endangered Milky Stork (Mycteria cinerea) and the endemic Sunda Coucal (Centropus nigrorufus).

Muara Angke, despite its proximity to one of the most densely populated urban areas in the world, serves as a biodiversity hotspot, particularly for avifauna. The day’s observations yielded a total of 42 species, a noteworthy count for such a confined area. Notable records included the Bar-winged Prinia (Prinia familiaris), which is endemic to the region, the Sunda Collared-Dove (Streptopelia bitorquata), and the diminutive but striking Small Blue Kingfisher (Alcedo coerulescens).

The high species diversity observed in this small reserve underscores its ecological significance, particularly as a refuge amidst the surrounding urban sprawl. After completing our outing, we returned to the hotel to prepare for the next phase of the tour—a journey across the expansive Indonesian archipelago to West Papua.

Biak

Our first destination was Biak, an island located in the Cenderawasih Bay, just off the northern coast of West Papua, Indonesia. It’s part of the Biak Numfor Regency and is known for its rich biodiversity, especially when it comes to birdlife. The island is characterized by tropical rainforest, limestone hills, and mangrove swamps, making it an ideal habitat for a variety of bird species.

Biak is a renowned destination for birdwatchers due to its high level of endemism. Some of the bird species found on Biak and its surrounding islands are unique to this region, making it a must-visit for those interested in rare and endemic birds.

When exploring the avifauna of Biak, we were drawn by several key species that are both striking and unique to the region. One of the most sought-after is the Biak Paradise Kingfisher (Tanysiptera riedelii), a bird that captures attention with its brilliant blue and white plumage. This species is endemic to Biak and the surrounding islands, making it a prized find for birders visiting this remote location. We were delighted to have amazing views of a trio of birds that eventually allowed us prolonged views.

The Biak Coucal (Centropus chalybeus) is a special find for those fortunate enough to spot it. Known for its elusive nature and distinctive calls, this bird often remains hidden within dense vegetation, making our sighting a memorable event. In contrast, the Biak Lorikeet (Trichoglossus rosenbergii) is a burst of color in the treetops, often seen flying in small, noisy flocks. 

We were excited to have great views of the tiny Geelvink Pygmy Parrot (Micropsitta geelvinkiana) is named after the Geelvink Bay*, now known as Cenderawasih Bay.

The Biak White-eye (Zosterops mysorensis) is found only in the Biak-Numfor region, and along with the Biak Gerygone (Gerygone hypoxantha), a small, warbler-like bird often seen flitting about in the treetops, rounds out the fascinating array of birds that make Biak a destination of interest for ornithologists and birdwatchers alike.

Jayapura & Wamena

Leaving this beautiful island, we next flew to Jayapura, soaring over breathtaking tropical islands set in a cerulean sea. As we proceeded, we could observe the vibrant green and lush rainforests below us intertwined with a network of meandering rivers. Thanks to a cancelled flight, we had some time in Jayapura to explore some nearby grasslands. These grasslands offer some excellent birding with a variety of species to observe. In these open habitats, we spotted numerous Pied Bushchats, a small bird with striking black and white plumage. Impressive numbers of Grand Munias distracted us from the more retiring species such as handsome White-shouldered Fairywrens, Golden-headed Cisticolas, and Lesser Black Coucals. A small group of burbled as the flew overhead, while our first Orange-bellied Fruit-Dove was spotted in a nearby tree.

The following morning, we headed to the airport for our somewhat belated flight to Wamena in the Central Highlands. Birding around Wamena, in the Baliem Valley of Papua, offers an incredible opportunity to see some of the most unique and elusive birds in the world. The area’s diverse habitats, which range from montane grasslands to lush forests and mossy woodlands, support a rich variety of avian life. 

One of the standout features of the birdlife here is the presence of several endemic species. The Greater Lophorina is a highlight, and we were pleased to spot them in the foraging in the trees around the village of Aikima. Other remarkable birds included the poorly named Modest Tiger-Parrot, the handsome Rufous-naped Bellbird, Baliem and Lorentz’s Whistlers, and Fan-tailed Berrypecker, amongst many others.

Nimbokrang

Our birding trip to Nimbokrang was a fascinating exploration of avian diversity. We kicked off the day with a sighting of a Great Cuckoo-Dove (Reinwardtoena reinwardti), though only one individual was spotted. Fruit doves were well-represented: we observed Wompoo Fruit-Doves (Ptilinopus magnificus) and Orange-bellied Fruit-Doves (Ptilinopus iozonus) in the forest canopy.

Other pigeons also made an appearance with a Pinon’s Imperial-Pigeon (Ducula pinon) and a Zoe’s Imperial-Pigeon (Ducula zoeae), adding to the impressive list of birds here. The Channel-billed Cuckoo (Scythrops novaehollandiae) and Brush Cuckoo (Cacomantis variolosus) added to the vocal ambiance, while the Marbled Frogmouth (Podargus ocellatus) and Papuan Frogmouth (Podargus papuensis) were intriguing, if somewhat elusive.

Swiftlets were numerous, with many Uniform Swiftlets (Aerodramus vanikorensis) flying overhead. Raptors included the Variable Goshawk (Accipiter hiogaster) and Brahminy Kite (Haliastur indus) which were both fairly common. The impressive Blyth’s Hornbill (Rhyticeros plicatus) provided many notable sightings, and we also saw Rainbow Bee-eaters (Merops ornatus) and Dollarbirds (Eurystomus orientalis), each displaying their striking plumage.

The Sulphur-crested Cockatoos (Cacatua galerita) and Black-capped Lories (Lorius lory) were plentiful, while the Coconut Lorikeet (Trichoglossus haematodus) also appeared frequently. We recorded a Meyer’s Friarbird (Philemon meyeri) as well asHelmeted Friarbirds (Philemon buceroides novaeguineae), along with Boyer’s Cuckooshrikes (Coracina boyeri) and Black-browed Trillers (Lalage atrovirens atrovirens).

The Black Cicadabird (Edolisoma melas) and Rusty Pitohui (Pseudorectes ferrugineus) were additional highlights, but the Twelve-wired Bird-of-Paradise (Seleucidis melanoleucus) and Lesser Bird-of-Paradise (Paradisaea minor) and King Bird-of-Paradise were without doubt the highlights of our observations here.

Our birding in the Nimbokrang grasslands also revealed a fascinating array of species. The Coroneted Fruit-Dove (Ptilinopus coronulatus) added a splash of color with its striking plumage. Rainbow Bee-eaters (Merops ornatus) were observed here, their bright plumage and aerial acrobatics providing quite the spectacle. The now familiar Dollarbird (Eurystomus orientalis) were also seen, and we were fortunate to spot a small group of fly over two Brown Lories (Chalcopsitta duivenbodei) amongst the more numerous Coconut Lorikeets (Trichoglossus haematodus). A single Fawn-breasted Bowerbird (Chlamydera cerviniventris) was arguably the most welcome find of the afternoon. We also spotted Yellow-gaped Honeyeater (Microptilotis flavirictus) and Long-billed Honeyeater (Melilestes megarhynchus), along with the more common Helmeted Friarbirds (Philemon buceroides novaeguineae), with their distinctive vocalizations. A trio of Shining Flycatchers (Myiagra Alecto) led us on a bit of a chase as they zipped around the bushes. Another highlight of our outing here was a flock of Crimson Finches (Neochmia phaeton) which added a vibrant splash of colour, while the Streak-headed Munia (Mayrimunia tristissima) and Grand Munia (Lonchura grandis) rounded out our observations with their more subtle features.

Manokwari

After a short but refreshing stay at our comfortable hotel in Jayapura, we took another flight westward to Manokwari. From there, we would begin our adventure into the Arfak Mountains with a now relatively comfortable drive to the village of Minggre, where we settled into our simple accommodation before beginning our exciting birding adventure here.

The hides set up by local villagers offer superb opportunities to observe some of the region’s most extraordinary bird species. Western Parotia (Parotia sefilata) is always a standout and from the hide, we watched with fascination as a handsome male showcased his spectacular courtship displays. The intricate dance, coupled with vibrant plumage, was a remarkable sight, revealing the elaborate rituals these birds use to attract mates. The Vogelkop Lophorina (Lophorina niedda) made brief appearances with its striking and somewhat peculiar appearance. Lastly, we were treated to views of the Black Sicklebill (Epimachus fastosus). This impressive bird, easily recognizable by its large size and distinctive sickle-shaped bill, was another highlight of our time in the Arfak Mountains. The hides provide a crucial advantage for these observations, allowing us to experience these incredible species in their natural behaviors and environments.

At a slightly lower altitude in the Arfak Mountains, we had the opportunity to observe a slightly different suite of bird species. The White-eared Bronze-Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx osculans) with its distinctive white ear patches and calls showed well. We also encountered the Red-breasted Pygmy-Parrot (Corythaeola cristata), with its vivid plumage and tiny size was spied in the treetops. The Rusty Mouse-Warbler (Crateroscelis murina) was another fascinating find. This small, unassuming bird with its rusty plumage and subtle songs was spotted in the dense foliage at another hide.

It was pleasing to find the unusual Stout-billed Cuckooshrike (Coracina robusta), along with the Hooded Pitohui (Pitohui dichrous), a striking bird known for its bold coloration and distinctive call. The Mountain Peltops (Peltops montanus) was another noteworthy sighting. This striking bird is visually almost identical to its lowland counterpart, the appropriately named Lowland Peltops, but their vocalisations couldn’t be more different! Our sights of the smart White-rumped Robin (Poecilodryas hypoleuca) was unexpected and exciting. The tiny Pygmy Longbill’s (Ptilorhis microps) subtle movements and feeding habits were a fascinating aspect of our lower altitude observations.

Two other very unusual birds provided a couple of trip highlights. The first was a super cute Vogelkop Owlet-nightjar. Ensconced in its cosy tree hollow, it didn’t realise it was the cause of great excitement as Susan’s five thousandth bird! The second was a Feline Owlet-nightjar which highly skilled Hans tracked down for us in a dense thicket perched on the side of a small cliff. To get a good view of this intriguing species, we had to do some light climbing, but it was worth it for the close-up look at this unique bird.

Waigeo Island

Waigeo Island and its surrounding seas is one of Indonesia’s most biodiverse regions, not just for birds but for herps, insects and especially for its marine life. Our focus was very much on spotting the stunning Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise and the Red Bird-of-Paradise. Using strategically placed hides was key to our success in observing these elusive species up close.

Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise (Cicinnurus respublica) is renowned for its vivid coloration and spectacular courtship display, making it a highly sought-after sight for bird enthusiasts. On Waigeo, we hiked to the hides set up by our skilled local birders where males are known to perform their displays. These well-appointed hides allow us to observe the bird without causing disturbance. It was thrilling to watch a stunning male Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise as he tended to his dancing ground. The bird’s vibrant plumage—a dazzling mix of blues, reds, and yellows—was on full display as it fanned out its tail feathers, creating a mesmerizing visual spectacle. The hides allowed us to document the bird’s behaviour and interactions in detail, offering insights into its mating rituals and territorial displays.

The Red Bird-of-Paradise (Paradisaea rubra), with its striking red and black feathers, was another highlight of our birding adventure. Unlike Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise, which favours denser foliage, the Red Bird-of-Paradise displays in more open, elevated spots. The impressive hide is positioned perfectly to observe this behaviour, ensuring we could observe the bird’s elaborate displays. There were so many other highlights of our visit to this special place – the avian diversity provided a memorable birding experience.

On Waigeo, we encountered several bird species that highlight the island’s diverse avian community. We were excited to connect with the impressive Palm Cockatoo (Probosciger aterrimus), with its striking black plumage and large red cheek patches. Numerous Papuan Eclectus (Eclectus roratus) were present, showcasing the species’ remarkable sexual dimorphism. Males are bright green, while females are vivid red and purple.

The Hooded Butcherbird (Cracticus cassicus) was frequently heard with its distinctive chortling calls. Its habit of singing from a prominent perch makes it easy to spot, and its calls are an important part of its communication and territorial displays. In the dense undergrowth, the Green-backed Gerygone (Gerygone chloronota) was another welcome find. Its subtle green and grey plumage helps it blend into the foliage, and its soft, melodic calls are a pleasant feature of the bird. The Waigeo Shrikethrush (Colluricincla megarhyncha), which is unique to Waigeo, was observed with its well-camouflaged plumage. As Lesser Frigatebirds (Fregata ariel) effortlessly gliding overhead on the air currents, we found handsome Beach Kingfishers (Todiramphus sanctus) along the coast, with their dazzling blue and white plumage.

Sorong

Our long drive on very rough roads to the remote village of Malasigi was rewarded with some excellent sightings. The scarce Large Fig-Parrot (Psittaculirostris desmarestii) was seen along with Black-capped Lory (Lorius lory) and the endemic Black Lory (Chalcopsitta atra) The Helmeted Friarbird (Philemon buceroides novaeguineae) was notably abundant, and Boyer’s Cuckooshrike (Coracina boyeri) and the Spangled Drongo (Dicrurus bracteatus carbonarius) were by now fairly familiar. Our first Grey Crows (Corvus tristis) were noisy and impressive as were our first Golden Mynas (Mino anais). A short walk took us to a pair of hides where we had outstanding views of Eastern Hooded Pitta and Black-sided Robins.

Returning to Sorong, we birded various sites on the outskirts of the city. A long walk in excellent forest turned up more great birds, amongst them an aptly named Dwarf Fruit-Dove, outstanding Dwarf Koel and White-crowned Cuckoo, and colourful Blue-fronted Fig-Parrots. Impressive Papuan Spinetails zoomed overhead as we tracked down Tawny-breasted Honeyeaters, Golden Cuckooshrikes, Glossy-mantled Manucodes and a sneaky King Bird-of-Paradise. Sorong wrapped up our birding travels in West Papua in suitably spectacular style in the mangroves where we found the superb Blue-and-black Kingfisher, which initially put up some serious resistance before eventually allowing us to admire its considerable beauty at length! 

Many thanks to you all for the fun, exciting, and bird filled trip to this amazing part of the world! I appreciated your good humor and enthusiasm, which added to everyone’s enjoyment of an unforgettable birding experience.            

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