Lesser Antilles

Note: The island order may vary depending on inter-island flight schedules, which aren’t produced until a few months prior to the tour. Please don’t book flights into the first island and out of the last island without first checking with the tour manager!

 The 2025 tour will begin on Grenada and end on Barbados. The 2026/2027 beginning/end islands are not yet known.  

Day 1: Our epic birding adventure through the enchanting islands of the Lesser Antilles begins on the popular tourist destination of Antigua. A stunning gem in the region’s crown, the island of Antigua is a land of myriad crystal-clear bays and coves, and its residents boast of their being able to go to a different beach every day of the year and still not be able to visit them all!

Upon arrival in the early afternoon, you’ll be collected by prearranged transport and taken to our accommodation for the first three nights of our trip - a delightful country inn just outside of the capital city of St. John’s. After checking-in, you have time to enjoy the property’s spacious tropical gardens - perhaps picking up a selection of indigenous regional species, including Antillean Crested Hummingbird (one of four species of hummer we’ll target on this trip), Lesser Antillean Bullfinch, and subspecies of Caribbean Elaenia. Alternatively you may wish to take a dip in the pool and enjoy a cocktail in the large open air lounge before we come together as a group to have a welcome briefing and a delicious West Indian dinner - the first of many on our trip! Night on Antigua.

Day 2: With our packed breakfast, we’ll head to Antigua’s main port (a short 10-minute drive away), where we’ll embark on a day trip to the smaller sister of this twin-island state: Barbuda. We’ll board our vessel and soon be jetting across some of the most beautiful waters in the Caribbean Sea.

Arriving on Barbuda, one can immediately see the stark contrast between the heavily developed and well-established tourist destination of Antigua and this little-visited island, where vast stretches of undisturbed beaches, sheltered coves, and dry coastal forests support a very different cast of characters to those we will encounter during the rest of our trip.

Our main target here will be the diminutive Barbuda Warbler. This charming warbler is perfectly at home in the dry scrublands of one of the Lesser Antilles’ driest islands and shares the habitat with species such as: Common Ground, Eared, and White-winged Doves; Black-faced Grassquit; Lesser Antillean Iguanas; and, bizarrely, herds of feral donkeys!

Barbuda is also home to the largest Magnificent Frigatebird colony in the Caribbean. These giants are most commonly seen soaring high above the ocean, carefully scanning the waters for food floating on or close to the surface. It is a wonderful treat to board a dinghy that will take us across a shallow lagoon teeming with marine life, as evidenced by the hundreds of jellyfish of every shape and size floating beneath us and clearly visible from our boat. We’ll spend time in the presence of these incredible birds, observing their behavior and watching as squadrons of adults manipulate their impressive six-to-seven-foot wingspan to return to their perches with food for their young.

Driving around the island, one cannot help but be struck by the spectacular and unspoiled natural beauty of Barbuda. The water is a glistening turquoise blue, and the colors of the sands effortlessly blend between brilliant whites and varying shades of pink. With some of the most untouched beaches in the Caribbean literally on either side of us, what better way to spend the rest of the day than to head to a charming “Robinson Crusoe-esque” beach bar to enjoy a freshly-prepared meal of mahi mahi, chicken, (or lobster if you’re feeling indulgent), followed by a relaxing swim or snorkel in shallow waters and a stroll along an idyllic white-sand beach known to be frequented by Royal and Least Terns. This truly is a case of “Birding in Paradise”! NOTE: Participants can bring snorkels and masks on this Caribbean trip as there may be opportunities to snorkel on some of the islands.

On our return leg across the seas to Antigua, we may have the opportunity for dolphin and whale encounters. Night on Antigua.

Day 3: This morning, we hop aboard our prearranged transport for a short jaunt to a nearby saltwater pond to do some leisurely birding, focusing on a number of waders, waterfowl, and herons. There is even a chance for an encounter with small flocks of West-Indian Whistling-Duck.

We then return to our inn for a leisurely breakfast enjoyed with a view of White-crowned Pigeons feeding in the crowns of swaying palm trees, before taking a 30-minute flight to Dominica. With its innumerable waterfalls and a river for every day of the year coursing through her vast tracts of primary rainforest, Dominica is affectionately known as “the Nature Island of the Caribbean,” and offers a snapshot into what many of the more developed islands of the region would have resembled in years gone by. Additionally, it is one of only two countries in the Caribbean that is home to two endemic Amazona parrot species: the Imperial and the Red-necked Parrot (Jamaica, almost 15 times the size of Dominica, being the only other).

Upon arrival, we are collected by prearranged transport, and taken to our family-run hotel perched atop a sea cliff overlooking the rugged black sand beaches of Salisbury Bay. Here, we enjoy a light lunch at the hotel’s cliff-top restaurant before setting out in the afternoon into the Northern Forest Reserve (Syndicate Nature Trail).

We likely won’t have to travel far before the calls of an array of wondrous Lesser Antillean species give our van cause to pull off the dirt track to investigate. Species possible during a veritable barrage of sightings of near-endemics and birds indigenous to the region include Lesser Antillean Pewee and Zenaida Dove, the dazzling Purple-throated Carib, pairs of delicate Plumbeous Warblers dancing delightfully amongst the creeping vines dangling tantalizingly close to our heads, the deeply rufous endemic Kalinago Wren, and always inquisitive Lesser Antillean Saltator. As our van climbs ever higher along the track, we scan the roadside for the albiventris subspecies of the Eastern Red-legged Thrush. We’ll also see two members of the Mimid family: the largely common Tropical Mockingbird (subspecies antillarum) and the less often seen Scaly-breasted Thrasher.

Upon arrival back at our clifftop accommodation we have a fabulous view of the setting sun and enjoy a well-earned cocktail before tucking into a Creole-inspired dinner. Night on Dominica.

Day 4: We’ll wake to the aroma of rich Dominican coffee as we set off before dawn with a packed breakfast to give ourselves the best opportunity to see one of the rarest species not only in the region, but on the entire planet: the majestic Imperial Amazon.

Deep in the cloud forest, overlooking richly forested valleys with the distant sound of thunderous rivers coursing far below us, we’ll scan the towering emergent trees for the undisputed avian monarch of this land. Its more gregarious cousin, the Red-necked Parrot, should provide far more frequent entertainment, as small flocks awaken to flutter from one fruiting tree to another. Meanwhile, the trapline habits of the near-endemic Blue-headed Hummingbird will ensure that we regularly turn our attention to small groves of Costus spictatus and flowering bromeliads. Fifty-five species of butterfly—including regional endemics such as Dominican and Godman’s Hairstreaks, Godman’s Leaf, and St. Lucia Mestra—have been recorded on Dominica. These, along with the more wide-ranging Caribbean Buckeye and Cassius Blue, will ensure that we won’t ignore sunlit areas of forest floor during our time in the forest. We spend as long this morning as needed awaiting the odd creaky metallic call of the mighty Imperial - one of the most reliable means of honing in on its position. Lunch will be taken in the field, at the recently renovated Visitor Centre, before returning into the cloud forest to again target the Imperial (if we were not fortunate enough to see it in the morning). Pairs often return to their roosts shortly before sunset, and therefore if we have not seen this parrot earlier in the day, the late afternoon represents our best and final chance. On our drive back along the coast, we will stop at a small village Church, where we have a very good chance of seeing the subspecies of Ashy-faced Owl, almost certain to be elevated to full species status in the near future. Dinner will then be taken back at our hotel. Night on Dominica.

Day 5: We’ll follow our time on Dominica with a visit to the French Overseas Territory of Guadeloupe. The Basse-Terre island of Guadeloupe is remarkable, for its forests provide glimpses of some of the more secretive species rarely seen on other islands, such as Bridled Quail Dove (which can sometimes be seen walking at our feet), and the otherwise often elusive Forest Thrush - here in the Parc national du Guadeloupe, a bird that frequents roadside verges and feeds beneath picnic tables!  In addition, the movements of the Guadeloupe Woodpecker are somewhat unconventional, with birds often seen dangling upside down directly overhead while clinging to slender swinging branches and plucking ants from clusters of berries. Odd? Yes. But they certainly provide a fabulous show! Other species that frequent these lush forests are Brown Trembler - often seen displaying by lifting their wings, cocking their heads and tail, and trembling; and the dapper near-endemic Plumbeous Warbler.

Following a picnic-lunch of charcuterie, fromage and pâté, accompanied by freshly-baked crusty french baguettes and washed down with a local Ti’Punch (Guadeloupe’s take on a Caipirinha) we make our way back to the hotel. Here, you can relax around the pool for the remainder of the afternoon, or take a 15-minute walk to the white-sand beach for a dip in the refreshing turquoise waters before dinner. Night on Guadeloupe.

Day 6: Montserrat is widely known as the Second Emerald Isle, and one can circumnavigate it on foot and never leave the lush expanse of dense primary forest that dominates this largely unspoiled island. A volcanic eruption in 1995 rendered half of the island uninhabitable, covered it in magma, and caused a significant proportion of the population to emigrate…but what remains is simply stunning. The volcano itself still smolders and is constantly monitored by volcanologists who have declared the sparsely populated portion of the island safe for residents and visitors alike. This is also the half of the island where we’ll find our target bird species. The striking Montserrat Oriole will be our number one goal, and we’ll walk the paths of this ancient forest, dominated by huge emergents and long swinging lianas, until we come to reliable stands of giant heliconias, our best site for seeing orioles. We’ll be on the island during nesting season, so it is highly likely that such stands will reveal both the olive-green female and the fiery-breasted male.              

Although Montserrat is home to this single-island endemic, it is also the best island for honing in on Pearly-eyed Thrasher, which can prove difficult to find on other islands. However, on Montserrat it can be approached relatively closely both within and on the outskirts of the forest. Another target and one which will require far more patience is the secretive Forest Thrush. The Forest Thrush is a Lesser Antillean endemic, and the subspecies dorotheae is endemic here on Montserrat.

We’ll continue our walk through this picturesque habitat, where it is clear that the forest floor can be just as alive as the trees above. Leaves rustle everywhere; Montserrat’s Anolis lizard scuttles across the ground and clambers up tree trunks; the non-venomous and exceptionally rare Montserrat Racer warms itself in patches of sunlight; and unbelievably tiny Dwarf Geckos no bigger than the tip of your thumb study us with big googly eyes as they peek out from beneath the fallen leaves on the path before us.

Back at our local lunch spot, we’ll sit back, relax, and celebrate the day’s birding with a hearty meal and wash it down with a local specialty—Bush Rum! No sugar cane is used in this one—only select local herbs and plants gathered from the forest. Night on Montserrat.

Day 7: This morning, we’ll fly to St. Vincent with its black-sand beaches and vast sprawling wilderness. At the recently built international airport, we’ll be collected by prearranged transport and head into the lush primary rainforests of the towering La Soufrière volcano. These forests contain the best sites to see the critically endangered Whistling Warbler—one of four single-island endemic species of warbler in the region—along with a wonderful selection of near-endemics and indigenous regional species such as Grenada Flycatcher, Lesser Antilles Thrush, the stunning Green-throated Carib, and all-black Bananaquit - one of five distinct subspecies of Bananaquit found in the region. We’ll end our walk at a dry riverbed above which circle Common Black Hawk, as well as Broad-winged Hawk - subspecies antillarum, a near endemic known only to St. Vincent and Grenada. Periodically, we may have to lower our eyes from the skies to guard our snack of freshly picked fruit and plantain chips from inquisitive sapphire-headed St. Vincent Anoles!

After our day in the forest, we’ll head to a local family-owned hotel on the southwestern and only white-sand shoreline of St. Vincent. We’ll dine overlooking the swaying masts of catamarans and yachts moored off Young Island. Night on St. Vincent.

Day 8: This morning, we’ll have the privilege of being one of the few groups of people on the planet to observe large numbers of St. Vincent Parrots filling the skies above us. We’ll leave our hotel at 4:00 a.m. with packed breakfast in our bags to drive to a ‘secret spot’ that requires our vehicle to cross the same river seven times at different locations before ascending into the realm of the mighty Amazona guildingii. We’ll strategically select our spots atop a high ridgeline and from there wait for the raucous parrots to emerge from their roosts in the forests around us.

The St. Vincent Parrot is a species that was long on the verge of extinction and is still listed on the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s (IUCN) Red List of the most-threatened species on the planet. So the opportunity to have incredibly close views of this number of wild birds in their natural habitat will be one of the highlights of the trip.

After our wonderful dawn encounter with the parrots, we’ll descend the mountain, pulling over at select sites where the ever-present mangoes and guavas prove an irresistible lure to the soon to be split Lesser Antillean (St. Vincent) Tanager, Lesser Antillean Bullfinch, Spectacled Thrush, Smooth-billed Ani, and even Yellow-bellied Elaenia, feasting on fruit flies drawn to the ripening fruit.

After the early start, our birding is mostly over for the day by mid-morning, so we’ll return to our hotel for a swim in the pool, or stroll along the spectacular beaches that line this coast. We’ll have lunch at the beachside restaurant and gaze out across the turquoise waters at Brown Pelicans, Royal Terns, and Brown Noddies before making the short 10-minute drive to the airport.

Following a 20-minute mid-afternoon flight, we’ll touch down in spectacular St. Lucia, where upon arrival, we are collected by pre-arranged transport and taken to our locally-run hotel in the seaside town of Rodney Bay. The meals here are excellent and we enjoy a sumptuous dinner before retiring to our rooms for the night. Night on St. Lucia.

Day 9: After an early breakfast, we head out to see one of the last thriving populations of the threatened St. Lucia Thrasher, and other inhabitants of the dry Atlantic forest in which it resides, such as the near-endemic subspecies of Lesser Antillean Saltator and curious Mangrove Cuckoo.

We then continue into the mountainous interior and island’s showpiece natural attraction: the sprawling Des Cartiers Rainforest. Des Cartiers is dominated by numerous trees endemic to the region including the majestic and aromatic Lansan along with gargantuan tree ferns, tiny bromeliads, and orchids. We’ll spend the rest of the morning here, walking the well-maintained (but in parts uneven underfoot) trails and identifying the wondrous diversity of flora all around us. Our forest walk culminates at an observation area, where we’ll be afforded excellent views of the island’s national bird and most colorful of all Amazonas: the magnificent St. Lucia Parrot. At this site, we will also be in the presence of a number of other deep-forest dwellers. With luck, the ethereal song of the Rufous-throated Solitaire and the high-pitched note of the Lesser Antillean Euphonia will reveal their location, and will be intermingled with appearances by Grey Tremblers and Lesser Antillean Flycatchers.

From the forest, we’ll make for the small coastal village of Micoud, where we will have a late lunch at a local spot. We will then head back to our hotel to spend the rest of the afternoon either at the pool, exploring Rodney Bay and Reduit Beach, or simply relaxing on our private balconies before gathering for dinner.

NOTE: if you are unsteady on your feet, or struggle with balance, or have any mobility issues, it is recommended that you bring walking poles to use during your time in Des Cartiers. This is one of the more lengthy and uneven paths we use on the entire tour. Night on St. Lucia.

Day 10: Following breakfast at our hotel, we make for the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Soufrière, pausing at a reliable site for Black, Short-tailed and Lesser Antillean Swift. Once in Soufrière, isolated groves of drought-tolerant trees line the small secondary roads of this coastal habitat, and we'll target the endemic St.Lucia Black Finch, and one of four single-island endemic wrens found in the region; on St.Lucia it is Troglodytes mesoleucus.

Lunch today is at what is surely the restaurant with the best view of Les Pitons - the island’s signature twin volcanic plugs which rise majestically out of, and contrast well with, the calm waters of the Caribbean Sea.

We’ll then continue on to a unique ecotone, known to harbor many of the island’s indigenous and endemic species. It is no exaggeration to state that here numerous target species of birds will join the myriad Gulf Fritillaries, Cloudless Sulphurs, and Great Southern Whites flitting all around us. Overhead, we may see Lesser Antillean Swifts effortlessly manipulating the air currents; amongst the trees, colorful St. Lucia Warblers peering underneath leaves in search of caterpillars; overhanging tree limbs representing perfect vantage points for St. Lucia Pewees to launch attacks on winged insects; and an abundance of fruits ripening in the tropical sun that prove an irresistible lure for opportunistic St. Lucia Orioles. Before we head back to our hotel for dinner, we’ll travel to a reliable location for an audience with one of the most difficult of endemics to see on the island—the St. Lucia Nightjar! Some have demoted this bird to a subspecies of Rufous Nightjar, but we support those who consider it a full species. Night on St. Lucia.

Day 11: With our packed breakfast on board with us, we’ll journey today by boat to the stunning and heavily forested French Overseas Territory of Martinique. By this stage in our travels along the island chain, any prior belief that a visit to one Lesser Antillean island is akin to visiting another is likely to have vanished. The stark differences in topography, culture, industry and development along with the varied socio-economic differences in populations ensure that a visit to the islands of the Lesser Antilles is very much an exploration of 10 very individual and unique islands.

The small bistros and cafes that line the main courtyard of the thriving capital city of Fort-de-France and the feverish games of boules played on well-manicured pitches are unlike anything we will have seen on previous islands and are testimony to the island’s French influence.

Martinique is the oldest of the islands in the Lesser Antilles, and it therefore makes sense that it is here that we’ll encounter the nominate of three of those species that have filtered out to other islands over millennia - the Lesser Antillean Bullfinch, Gray Trembler and Rufous-throated Solitaire. But the island also boasts two single-island endemics - the stunning Martinique Oriole and the endangered White-breasted Thrasher. While in some truly spectacular primary forest, we’ll also be looking for Black-whiskered Vireo and Blue-headed Hummingbirds (in case this delightful near-endemic hummer has proven elusive in Dominica) as well as targeting the striking Rufous-hooded “Mangrove Warbler” and Ruddy Quail Dove. Night on Martinique.

Day 12: Today we arrive in Grenada, the southernmost island visited on the trip. From the air, the densely populated coastlines of this tiny island might seem an unlikely destination on a birding trip. However, by virtue of our visiting one of the last remaining vestiges of suitable habitat along the southern coastline of the island, we’ll be provided with the opportunity to see the rarest species of the entire tour: the Grenada Dove.

Latest counts estimate the surviving number of Grenada Doves to be as low as 130 individual birds. However, by drawing on experience and knowledge amassed over numerous previous trips, we should be treated to a sight few people have experienced. After visiting the last stronghold of this delicate, unassuming dove, we’ll explore the dry woodland that represents its natural habitat. Here, we’ll also be treated to views of the “Spice Isle’s” other inhabitants, including the Rufous-breasted Hermit, an endemic subspecies of Green-throated Carib (chlorolaemus), the last of the four endemic Lesser Antillean Wrens, and the soon-to-be-split Lesser Antillean (Grenada) Tanager.

We’ll finish the day by climbing a well-positioned observation tower to scan the skies for the local race of Hook-billed Kite, before returning to our vibrantly-colored and newly refurbished resort for dinner. Night in Morne Rouge, Grenada.

Day 13: At midday we make the short 25-minute flight to Barbados. This tiny island of breathtakingly beautiful beaches surrounded by turquoise seas also shelters a few areas of prime birding habitat. Here, we will visit one of the most productive wetlands on the island, where we have the opportunity for sightings of many of the island’s unique species, including nominate “Golden” Warbler, subspecies of Carib Grackle, endemic subspecies of Caribbean Elaenia, and of course the Barbados Bullfinch. Long dangling aerial roots of Rhizophora mangle in the thickets at the water’s edgeprovide shelter for skulking Green Herons and Barbados Anoles along with armies of fiddler crabs. While in the wetland, we’ll also have excellent opportunities for views of Grey Kingbird, as well as up-close encounters with Antillean Crested Humingbird. This is also prime habitat for troops of Vervet monkeys (“Barbados Green Monkey”).

At dusk, the West Indian mahogany trees that surround our hotel are filled with the calls of Scaly-naped Pigeons selecting their favored roosts, the fluttering wings of Velvety Free-tailed bats, and the regional endemic Myotis nyctor setting out to feed. Food is also on our minds, and we’ll step down from our hotel onto the gleaming white sands that line the southern coastline of the island for a sunset stroll along the beach to the small fishing village of Oistins, where we’ll tuck into a delicious dinner of freshly caught grilled fish, shrimp, and lobster. Night on Barbados.

Day 14: After a buffet breakfast featuring Bajan specialties such as pumpkin fritters, fish cakes, bakes and fried plantain (all enjoyed on the hotel balcony overlooking the sparkling waters of the Caribbean Sea), we are collected by pre-arranged transport and set off on a scenic tour of this small island. The excellent infrastructure allows us to visit pristine habitats we locals refer to as being “behind God’s back”; including stunning lily ponds spring fed with water filtered through the limestone bedrock of the island. Such secluded ponds are home to families of Masked Duck, Black-bellied Whistling Duck, and Southern Lapwing along with a host of fascinating and dazzling species of dragonfly and damselfly - from the dainty Rainpool Spreadwing and Rambur’s Forktail to the imposing Great Pondhawk and Orthemis macrostigma (this Lesser Antillean endemic recently elevated to full species status).

Barbados is an island of two very distinct coasts. On the one hand there is the glittering white sand beaches and placid waters of the west coast, while a mere 11 miles east is a rugged shoreline constantly ravaged by the rolling waves of the Atlantic as they crash against this – their first landfall encountered since the shores of West Africa. On this wild eastern coast we enjoy lunch at a popular local “rum shop” where traditional Bajan cooking is at its finest. The local dish of flying fish and cou-cou is a popular choice as is fried or pickled “sea-cat” and pork stew.

With a rum punch in hand we gaze out across the sparkling seas that for two weeks we have journeyed across. What better way to draw to a close our remarkable tour of the magical Lesser Antilles. Tour ends with transfer to airport and late afternoon flights home.

2024 Narrative

Day 1 - Grenada: What a start to the trip, as we enjoy superb views of a Cape May Warbler (a potential first record for the island) right outside the hotel grounds. Having seen this overwintering migrant, the question turns to: what more does the Spice Isle of Grenada have in store for us? Answer - a likely date with several mouth-watering regional specialties and critically endangered endemics! After a hearty welcome dinner accompanied by a number of social beverages of varying alcoholic percentages, it is time to head to bed in anticipation of our first foray into Lesser Antillean  birding tomorrow.

Day 2 - Grenada: The Grenada Dove is one of the most critically endangered species (not just birds) on the entire planet and is rapidly heading closer to the point of no return. No census has been done since 2015, but some estimates have this bird at less than 40 individuals! At dawn we make for the last stronghold of the species, and after hearing three, are finally privileged enough to see one of these “Walking Ghosts” cautiously feeding amongst the tangled undergrowth of its dry forest home. A special and treasured encounter. 

With the number one target sighted, our attention turns to tracking down the owners of the myriad calls emanating from the thorn-laden branches surrounding us. (Grenada) House Wren (a likely split) and Grenada Flycatcher provide excellent views as does Black-faced Grassquit, Eared Dove, Antillean Crested Hummingbird and Tropical Mockingbird.  

After returning to the hotel for breakfast, we head out again in the afternoon, where we ascend into the heights of Grand Etang National Park and are treated to stunningly close views of Lesser Antillean (Grenada) Tanager (another likely split!), all-black morph of the endemic subspecies of Bananaquit, Cocoa (Lesser Antillean) Thrush, Rufous-breasted Hermit and the endemic subspecies of Green-throated Carib. 

A short walk down to the beach before dinner yields a pair of Scaly-naped Pigeon, fluttering Yellow-bellied Elaenias, a basking Lesser Antillean Iguana, and on the coast, Royal Terns and Brown Boobies plunging into the crystal-clear turquoise waters. 

Day 3 - St. Vincent: The Whistling Warbler is one of the most critically endangered warblers on Earth, and after losing a significant amount of habitat thanks to the violent eruption of Soufriere in April 2021, numbers have recently fallen even further. Still though, isolated populations do remain in select moist montane forests, and after the most challenging hike of the trip, we both hear and see this highly coveted monotypic genus. Not exactly known for perching in one place for lengthy periods, on this occasion, the spectacularly monocled warbler with the ever-cocked tail and an inquisitive but flitty demeanor, poses rather well. Whilst in this ancient and unspoiled forest we also enjoy close views of Lesser Antillean (St. Vincent) Tanager - and are therefore able to compare its fiery chestnut cap and blonder underparts to the deep maroon cap and purple tinged underparts of the Grenada ssp. Some taxonomies have already split these two strikingly differently plumaged tanagers, and others are expected to follow suit - hence the need to target both! 

Ever entertaining Brown Tremblers and Scaly-breasted Thrashers add to our ever growing list of regional endemics. 

After a delicious and sizable local lunch of fish, chicken, dasheen, quinoa and green fig salad, we -  rejuvenated and revitalised - make for a private site known to harbour the largest remaining population of the threatened St. Vincent Amazon. As these large and unusually plumaged parrots begin to arrive overhead, twisting and cavorting as they descend to favoured perches, we enjoy stunning views of the deep sapphire blues, rich oranges and vibrant yellows interspersed amongst their bronzed brown bodies and oddly white heads. This truly is a special place and a treasured encounter. 

Day 4 - St. Lucia: After an early morning swim in the sea, followed by breakfast on the open air verandah gazing out at the swaying masts of catamarans, and gliding frigatebirds, we board our plane for St. Lucia. As we make a stop in Barbados, there’s time for a spot of airport birding which proves to be hugely successful, yielding both the endemic Barbados Bullfinch and the soon-to-be-recognised Barbados Grackle! TICK! 

Touching down on spectacular St. Lucia, we enjoy a tasty buffet lunch on the beach, before birding the wild northeast of the Island. Here we enjoy some of the best possible views of St. Lucia Black-Finch, when a glorious male perches unobstructed about 10 feet away!  This simply isn’t supposed to happen. This species is a skulker who typically offers brief views, however this particular showman apparently hasn’t read the memo, opting to remain on a single perch, in the open, tail constantly bobbing and seemingly reveling in the attention. Along with this critically endangered endemic, other targets which show well along this forest edge are (St.Lucia) House Wren, the absolutely stunning Lesser Antillean Euphonia with its glorious turquoise cap (a bird that just last year was upgraded to full species status), delightful St.Lucia Pewees flitting out from favoured perches to snatch winged insects, and a superb St.Lucia Warbler - underparts perfectly mirroring the tropical sun that behind us bathes the rugged East Coast.

At our lavish resort many opt for a swim in the large pools before settling down to dinner with options including Caribbean style braised lamb shank, herb almond crusted salmon and Madras Mahi Mahi.

Day 5 - St. Lucia: An early start is warranted as we make our way down to the dry forests of the southeast and an audience with the threatened White-breasted Thrasher. Much larger and darker than the nominate on Martinique, these birds are initially hesitant to emerge, but after spending over an hour in the area (picking up Caribbean Elaenia, Antillean Crested Hummingbird and 2 female St.Lucia Black-Finch along the way) we almost fall over backwards as two adult birds flit out of the dense tangle of vegetation and perch at eye height in front of us….almost too close for binoculars! Absolutely amazing!! 

Later in the morning we exchange the dry broad-leaved forest for higher elevations as we move upwards along the famed Des Cartiers Trail. En route to our viewpoint we enjoy a lengthy encounter with an immature St.Lucia Oriole - a species in rapid and perilous decline largely due to the ever increasing population of Shiny Cowbirds (in turn increasing due to the creation of ever more edge habitat through human development). Upon arrival at the observation area we are stunned as the songster extraordinaire - the Rufous-throated Solitaire - perches at knee height directly in front of us. 30 minutes later we are again staring open mouthed as a pair of spectacular St.Lucia Parrots silently cruise by at eye level, before taking up residence in a fruiting tree below us - providing plenty of opportunity to revel in the vibrant blues, reds and greens of this - the most colourful of the four endemic Amazonas in the region.  

After a delicious local lunch, we take a ride across to a large wetland, where the birding takes yet another turn - this time the focus shifting to the myriad waterfowl dotted across the sedge-lined waterbody. A variety of herons, coots, and grebes also provide some enjoyable post-lunch viewing.

Arriving back at the hotel, the remainder of the afternoon is ours to enjoy swimming in the tranquil clear waters of Rodney Bay or relaxing by the pool. A nearby fishing village is our setting for dinner, and after watching a stunning sunset bathe the placid waters of the Caribbean Sea in golds and oranges, we tuck into grilled Barracuda and Mahi Mahi - all in the company of dozens of Royal and Sandwich Terns. 

Day 6 - Martinique: After a delicious buffet breakfast, we set sail for France (the tropical Caribbean version!). En route we have sightings of Red-billed Tropicbird, Brown Booby and several Magnificent Frigatebirds. After docking in historic Fort-de-France, we make our way up to the dry forests of the northeast, where our number one target is the White-breasted Thrasher (nominate found here on Martinique). After close views of a male singing Yellow Warbler and of a hugely cooperative Lesser Antillean Saltator perched at knee height a mere 6 feet away, we descend to a normally reliable site, where the Thrashers certainly don’t disappoint - a small family unit of 5 birds diligently flicking leaves in a seemingly endless search for invertebrates. 

After a dinner including enticing options such as king prawn tails in coconut curry and grilled octopus, as well as desserts such as pineapple cake drizzled in aged rum, we make for bed. Another spectacular single island endemic is on the cards for tomorrow! 

Day 7 - Martinique: Waking as the sun rises over the vast bay surrounding the coastal capital of Fort de France, our breakfast of warm cheese infused bread and pain au chocolat is interrupted only by the arrival of Orange-winged Amazons in the nearby trees, and of inquisitive Tropical Mockingbirds trying to pinch some of the delicious breakfast from our plates. 

As our van makes the short steady ascent into the Carbet Mountains, our route is lined with towering Tree Ferns and flowering heliconias - both favoured locations for Martinique Orioles. One of these brilliantly patterned birds eventually shows itself, albeit fleetingly, before more lasting and closer views of a foraging adult male are enjoyed by all members of the group (at very close range). There is seeing a bird, and then there is seeing a bird - and this certainly falls into the latter category - that superb deep maroon hood and flame orange mantle and flanks, a beacon amongst the deep dark foliage.

After enjoying the frenzied quivering of a Grey Trembler displaying in the crown of a fern, and perched Purple-throated Caribs with their resplendent rich pink throats glinting in the sun, we move yet higher into the mountains. Surrounded by towering peaks on all sides, we gradually enter the land of the Blue-headed Hummingbird - a highly coveted species and absolutely glorious hummer. No sooner have we arrived at a patch of tiny flowering shrubs, than a spectacular male lands directly in front of us and fans his tail, twists and pivots his head - revealing every deep shimmering sapphire scale on his nape - before beginning to feed.  Enjoying this sight with the ethereal cacophony of Rufous-throated Solitaire all around us, and an unseasonable autumnal downfall of leaves fluttering down towards us, is another wonderful and treasured highlight of this fabulous island adventure. Our day concludes with a delicious private dinner buffet at our hotel on Guadeloupe. 

Day 8 - Guadeloupe: Our second stint in France begins with us driving into the spectacular Parc Nacional du Guadeloupe - home to several key target species. No sooner have we exited the vehicle, than the first of these emerges from the lush forest. The stately and sharply dressed Bridled Quail-Dove is typically a secretive forest bird, but here on this tiny Dependency of France, it is reliably seen, and seen well. This is by no means the only memorable bird encounter of the morning.  In the vicinity of the dove, another often shy and difficult species hops out onto the short grass and proceeds to probe for worms in the soft mud. Endemic to the Lesser Antilles, the Forest Thrush is a strikingly patterned bird, and provides exquisite and extremely close views; as indeed does the glossy black Guadeloupe Woodpecker dexterously excavating a tree cavity overhead; and the entertaining Brown Tremblers performing their methodical shimmy on branches nearby.

After another birding stop at which we collect the near-endemic Plumbeous Warbler, we settle down to enjoy a delightful picnic of French cheeses, patés, freshly baked baguettes and chocolate! This is picnicking at its glorious best and the wine flows well into the afternoon.

After a restful afternoon in the pool and at the beach, we enjoy a sunset wetland stroll during which we add a few migrants to our trip tally, before tucking into another sumptuous dinner - this time at a popular Senegalese restaurant. 

Day 9 - Dominica: Upon approach to Dominica, we are greeted by the imposing vista of towering Morne Diablotin - realm of the Imperial Parrot - largest and grandest of all Amazonas. With potentially as few as 50 remaining (and this low population spread across vast tracts of wild and inaccessible terrain) this is unquestionably the most difficult endemic to see on the entire trip. After a light lunch we set off into the forest, wondering if we will become members of a very exclusive “birding club” - those who have laid eyes on this critically endangered species. 

From the outset, the signs are encouraging, for no sooner have we arrived at our prime viewing site, than an Imperial vocalises. We diligently scan the vast valley before us for any sign of movement. There is none. Seeing a large, primarily dark green bird somewhere in a sprawling valley of dark green trees is….challenging. We wait for it to call again, and then again. Where is it?? Every tree limb is scoured, but if the bird is perched at the rear of a tree, obscured from our vantage point, it is impossible. However, after waiting and watching patiently for a couple of hours, in a split second, a large dark bird drops from deep within the clutches of a towering emergent and perches in the open. WE HAVE CONTACT! As if we are one well-oiled birding machine we line up behind the scopes trained on this - the “El Dorado” of the parrot kingdom! Everyone soaks in and savours this truly special and spine-tingling experience. As if this lengthy perched viewing wasn’t enough, the bird then takes to the air and slowly cruises past us before perching again within view! 

Fully satiated by these near incomprehensible views, we start to leave the forest, and on the way out pick up another two key targets - several pairs of the smaller and far more common endemic Red-necked Amazons, their electric green plumage and striking sapphires and reds bathed in the light of the waning sun, along with the last of the 4 House Wrens unique to this region - and all very likely splits. 

Day 10 - Dominica: Our second morning on the Nature Isle begins with a drive to a reliable location for White-tailed Tropicbird, where a few of these elegant ocean wanderers are beginning to investigate potential nest sites. Steadily approaching the cliffs above our heads, we enjoy ever closer views of their gleaming white plumage accentuated by billowing tails buffeted in the wind. 

Later this morning we attend an audience with a roosting (Lesser Antillean) Barn Owl, another likely split, before a delicious local lunch of Dominican specialities follows. With all key targets seen, and seen well, we make for the Dry Forest where we add a host of key species to our now lengthy regional list; including Red-legged Thrush, Lesser Antillean Pewee, and dynamite views of Lesser Antillean Flycatcher perched at eye level a mere 6 feet away. 

As the sun sets on a glistening Caribbean Sea we watch Brown Pelicans, Royal Terns and even a Ringed Kingfisher cruise by our clifftop accommodation, many of us opting to down a cold cocktail in the warm tropical evening. 

Day 11 - Antigua: Touching down on the glistening beach-lined shores of Antigua, we make for our hotel, where our first thought is birding the extensive grounds. Indeed, no sooner have we exited the vehicle than we are training the scope on a wonderfully patterned White-crowned Pigeon and American Kestrel. Now on the last leg of our incredible 10-island adventure, the familiar rum punches begin to decorate the table in many more locations than at the beginning of the trip. It is safe to say that in addition to the birds, there are certainly myriad other delights to be enjoyed during Caribbean birding! 

Dinner tonight is yet another delicious fusion of West Indian, African and Asian culinary delights. On the menu this time: pork chops, creole shrimp and roast chicken. 

Day 12 - Barbuda: Our early morning arrival on Barbuda brings with it the opportunity to explore a parched, sun-drenched and almost unfathomably flat island. But within the pockets of scrubby vegetation lay a number of hidden wonders. The stunning Barbuda Warbler is the star, its beautiful, warbled song ringing out on either side of us as we walk - with several visible as they seek high elevated perches from which to vocalise. Caribbean Elaenias (this very pale ssp a likely split), the obviously different ssp of Lesser Antillean Bullfinch, and the miniscule endemic ssp of Lesser Antillean Flycatcher also show well. 

Crossing a shallow lagoon by motorised skiff, we are soon in the presence of giants. Thousands of Magnificent Frigatebirds fill the skies above us, while others claim prime nesting sites on the dwarf mangroves that fringe the marine-life rich lagoon. As we are relatively early in the breeding season, many males proudly inflate their bright red throat pouches in an attempt to win the affection of carefully discerning females. Although the majority are only now seeking a mate, others have paired up, with some already having established nests in which sit curious powder puff white chicks.   

A quiet swim in blissful turquoise waters follows, before settling down for a lunch of conch, curried chicken and freshly caught mahi mahi. Griswold’s Whiptail, Lesser Antillean Skimmer, West Indian Buckeye and herds of feral donkeys are amongst some of the kinds of wildlife providing post-picnic entertainment. 

Day 13 - Montserrat: Montserrat is an island with a dark and dangerous recent past, the mighty stratovolcano that erupted in the mid-90s rendering over half of the island uninhabitable. But it is also a fascinating place with a rich history and fabulous avian treasures - the undoubted highlight of which is the splendid Montserrat Oriole, a species that we enjoy multiple views of….one particular male posing perfectly on an exposed branch and with a backdrop of the fiery volcano ever-smoking and smouldering in the distance. Ever vocal Mangrove Cuckoos, inquisitive Pearly-eyed Thrashers and frantically trembling Brown Tremblers share the largely unspoilt forests of this magical land. 

With the sighting of the Montserrat Oriole, we’ve done it - every single endemic of this remarkable island region has been seen! In celebration we join Montserratians in downing their beverage of choice - the incomparable Bush Rum! Ahh excellent! 

At our farewell dinner we reminisce on our travels and recount fond highlights of our wonderful 2 weeks together. What an adventure, what a group, what a trip! 

Day 14 - Homeward Journey: There is still time this morning for a visit to a nearby wetland, where over 30 species of shorebird, heron and waterfowl show brilliantly well in the early morning light - dancing Tricolored Herons, soaring Lesser Black-backed Gulls, elegant Black-necked Stilts and both Lesser and Greater Yellowlegs but a few of the sightings - before making our way back to our hotel for a traditional Caribbean breakfast, and homeward journey. 

— Ryan Chenery

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