Uganda: Shoebills to Gorillas

Day 1: The tour begins this evening in Entebbe, Uganda.

Day 2: After an early breakfast and carrying our picnic lunch– most days will begin this way – we’ll depart for the Mbamba Wetlands, a locally protected marsh area of Lake Victoria and home to the magnificent Shoebill. We have a very good chance of locating one or more of these birds standing motionless among the papyrus, as well as an excellent selection of waterbirds. This is a weaver paradise, and we should find Golden-backed, Slender-billed, Northern Brown-throated, Village, Vieillot’s, Black-headed, and Grosbeak, and—if we are really fortunate—the near endemic Weyn’s Weaver. Other species here include Great Blue Turaco, Black-and-White Casqued Hornbill, and an impressive collection of swallows. All in all, it should be an excellent introduction to birding in Uganda. Later we’ll continue north to Masindi for our overnight stay, with several stops along the way where we may find Saddle-billed Stork, White-crested Turaco and a variety of widowbirds and bishops. Night in Masindi.

Day 3: We’ll depart for the renowned Murchison Falls National Park, locally known as Kabalega Falls. On the way we‘ll stop to look for Puvel’s Illadopsis in the Kaniyo Pabidi section of Budongo Forest where there is a small and disjunct population of this bird, which is typically found far to the west. Soon after we enter the National Park, it will be worth checking the gate for a large, bright, orange-and-velvety-black agama, a fairly newly described species of Old-World lizard Agama finchi or Finch’s Agama, named after our leader. We’ll drive slowly and bird as we head to our accommodation, stopping to picnic along the way. Night at Murchison Falls National Park.

Day 4: During our time at the Park, we’ll drive a track which heads along the Victoria Nile river towards the Lake Albert delta where the west-flowing Victoria Nile makes an abrupt turn and becomes the north-flowing Albert Nile. In the afternoon we’ll take a boat to the foot of Murchison Falls, where the mighty Nile is squeezed through a twenty-three-foot gap. An abundance of waterbirds occupy the well-wooded banks of the river, and we’ll hope for another encounter with Shoebill. Others we’ll also hope to see include the well-named Goliath Heron, Hamerkop on their enormous stick nests, yodeling African Fish-Eagle, and the regal Grey Crowned-Crane, which is Uganda’s National bird. Senegal Thick-knee, Long-toed and Spur-winged Lapwings, African Jacana, and African Skimmers all rest on sandbanks, and riverine vegetation provides perches for solitary and stately Giant and the gem-like Malachite Kingfishers. Burrows in the cliffs represent colonies of astounding Red-throated Bee-eaters or vociferous Pied Kingfishers. With luck we may see the rare Pel’s Fishing-Owl, as well as the dashing Red-necked Falcon that frequents the palm trees lining the riverbanks. In addition to the profusion of birds, we’ll see large numbers of the impressive Nile crocodile, hippopotamus, African buffalo, vervet monkey and olive baboon at close range, and herds of African elephants sometimes bathe in the river shallows. The scenic area north of the Nile holds a number of birds typical of dry savanna and we‘ll search here for Abdim’s Stork, Secretary Bird, Black-breasted Snake-Eagle, Shikra, Dark Chanting-Goshawk, Heuglin’s Francolin, Black-headed Lapwing, with both Swallow-tailed and Northern Carmine Bee-eaters, Black Scimitar-bill, Black-backed Cisticola, Shelley’s Rufous Sparrow, and Black-faced Quailfinch. A few birds—with their ranges centered on the Sahel region to the north—reach their southern limits here including the ponderous Abyssinian Ground-Hornbill, Vinaceous Dove, scarce White-fronted Black-Chat, excitable Red-winged Grey Warbler and somber White-rumped Seedeater. Mammals are well represented and we’ll watch for the shy patas monkey, bushbuck, Rothschild’s giraffe, Uganda kob, oribi, Jackson’s hartebeest, and Defassa waterbuck. This is also one of the best places in Uganda to find lions. The moist, grassy woodland to the south of the Nile is very different from that of the north bank and supports a host of localized birds including the unusually proportioned Purple Glossy-Starling, Red-winged Pytilia, Black-bellied Firefinch, both Cabanis’s and Brown-rumped Buntings, and, if we are fortunate, White-breasted Cuckooshrike and Yellow-bellied Hyliota. Night at Murchison Falls National Park.

Day 5: We’ll bird our way back to Masindi but by a different route to that of our arrival, and our goal is to reach the Butiaba escarpment overlooking the mighty Lake Albert. This area holds a number of interesting species including Black-billed Barbet, Lesser Blue-eared Starling, Green-backed Eremomela, Foxy Cisticola, Flappet Lark and Mocking Cliff-Chat.  From here we’ll drive slowly on our way back to Masindi, birding as we go.  Night in Masindi.

Day 6: We’ll depart for a full day to the Royal Mile section of the Budongo Forest Reserve, a wide forestry track considered to be Uganda’s premier forest birding location. It’s certainly rich in birds but many are concealed in the forest’s dense undergrowth, and others live in the high canopy, requiring our perseverance to spot them. We’ll also investigate more open habitat in cultivated areas, where an entirely different range of species may be found. Among the many we hope to find are White-spotted Flufftail, Blue Malkoha, three species of forest kingfisher—Chocolate-backed, Blue-breasted and Dwarf, impressive White-thighed Hornbill, barbets including Hairy-breasted and Yellow-billed, cryptic Green Hylia, Grey and Yellow Longbills, and local specialties Rufous-crowned Eremomela, Lemon-bellied Crombec, African Forest-Flycatcher, Chestnut-capped Flycatcher and Ituri Batis. Other birds to find include Purple-headed Glossy-Starling, the aberrant Grey-headed Sunbird, Yellow-mantled Weaver, and Crested Malimbe. Greenbuls are abundant, and we’ll work slowly through any flock that we encounter, looking for Honeyguide, Red-tailed, and the striking Spotted. The near endemic and spectacular Nahan’s Partridge is often heard but requires luck and patience to see. We’ll search the undergrowth alongside the track for numerous understory skulkers, which may include three Illadopsis species, Fire-crested Alethe, Red-tailed Ant-Thrush, Yellow-browed Camaroptera, and Grey-throated Flycatcher. We’ll keep an eye on any openings in the forest canopy, as Cassin’s and Crowned Hawk-eagles, and Cassin’s, Mottled, and Sabine’s Spinetails are all possible. Spinetails occasionally drink from a nearby forest pond, and here we’ll also hope to find a pair of brilliant Shining-blue Kingfishers. Night in Masindi.

Day 7: We’ll visit a different part of Budongo Forest where we’ll search particularly for species we missed yesterday, and given the huge variety of species in Budongo, we’ll certainly have missed a number. Night in Masindi.

Day 8: Departing immediately after breakfast, we’ll set off on the long drive to the Kibale Forest. While there may be odd stops along the way this is by necessity a driving day. In the afternoon, as we arrive on the outskirts of Fort Portal and pass through the highest section of the Kibale Forest, we’ll look for species not encountered elsewhere such as Joyful Greenbul, Masked Apalis, as well as the hyperactive Tiny Sunbird, and Narrow-tailed Starling. In addition we have at least a chance of hearing Olive Long-tailed Cuckoo. As we get closer to our accommodation, and if time permits, we’ll bird along the road until dusk. Night in Kibale Forest National Park.

Day 9: Our two major targets for today are an early morning search for the very rare Green-breasted Pitta and an afternoon forest trek for chimpanzees (see ** below). The towering Kibale Forest has the highest primate concentration and species diversity of any reserve in East Africa. Primate highlights might include the localized Central African red colobus monkey, L’Hoest’s monkey (Uganda’s rarest monkey), and the scruffy grey-cheeked mangabey. In addition, our chances of finding chimpanzees here are excellent. The birds are typical of medium-altitude forest, with some good mixed species flocks and specials such as Afep and the globally threatened and rarely encountered White-naped Pigeon, Red-chested Owlet, White-headed Woodhoopoe, Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher, African Shrike-flycatcher, Superb, Green-throated, and Green-headed Sunbirds and Chestnut Wattle-eye. Greenbuls are well represented and includes the scarce Toro Olive among the more widespread forest species. Dusky Long-tailed Cuckoos hide well but are a noisy forest inhabitant and Grey Parrots frequently feed in roadside trees here. Night in Kibale Forest National Park.

Day 10: We’ll travel to Bigodi, a swamp forest reserve managed by the local community to protect the primates and birds living in this area. It abounds in birds from the very large Black-and-White Casqued Hornbill, Ross’s and Black-billed Turacos, and Eastern Grey Plantain-eater to the very small with many sunbird species, estrildid finches, and various warblers. As we walk the only trail that circumnavigates the swamp, we’ll hope for good views of Brown-eared, Buff-spotted, and Yellow-crested Woodpeckers, dazzling Double-toothed and unusual Grey-throated Barbets, as well as their smaller cousins—Yellow-throated and Speckled Tinkerbirds. Hopefully, we’ll also spot the comical Black-and-White Shrike-Flycatcher noisily protecting its territory, as well as the furtive Snowy-crowned and Blue-shouldered Robin Chats and the conspicuous Vieillot’s Black and Yellow-backed Weavers. From here we have a relatively short drive to Queen Elizabeth National Park (QEP) and will arrive at our lodge in the afternoon, having  explored the local bushland. Night at Mweya Safari Lodge, QEP.

Day 11: After early breakfast overlooking the alluring Kazinga Channel, we’ll depart for the morning’s birding in the spectacular crater lakes area in the foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains and for the main game-viewing area along the Kasenyi track. A few of the species that are possible here include Bateleur, arguably Africa’s most spectacular raptor, Grey Kestrel, Red-necked Spurfowl, Common and the rarely encountered Black-rumped Buttonquail, African Crake, Senegal Lapwing, the marsh-dwelling Black Coucal, Rufous-naped, Red-capped, and the scarce White-tailed Larks. Of the ten species of cisticolas we’ll look and listen for Croaking, Wing-snapping, Trilling, Carruther’s and Stout. In rank grass we may find Marsh Tchagra and in reed beds Southern Red Bishop. Mammals will also be a highlight of today’s excursion, and we’ll have a good chance of finding lion, leopard, spotted hyena, African elephant, African buffalo, Ugandan kob, bushbuck, hippopotamus, common warthog, and the spectacular giant forest hog. We’ll return to our lodge for lunch, then embark on our launch trip on the Kazinga Channel. Highlights of the voyage include our close (and safe) approach to African buffalo and hippopotami, as well as to numerous waterbirds. Among a multitude of others, we’ll hope to find African Open-billed, Yellow-billed, Saddle-billed, and Marabou Storks, Glossy Ibis, Wattled Lapwing, Water Thick-knee, Swamp Flycatcher, and Lesser Swamp Warbler, as well as several species of gulls, terns, and pelicans. Night at Mweya Safari Lodge, QEP.

Day 12: If conditions allow, we’ll drive through the extensive southern Ishasha section of Queen Elizabeth National Park. We’ll likely see a large variety of savanna bird and mammal species, and we may be fortunate in sighting the area’s famous tree-climbing lions. We’ll have our picnic lunch at Ishasha where we can start on our Democratic Republic of the Congo bird list while gazing over the narrow, shallow river! Finally, we’ll reach the headquarters of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in Buhoma. Night in Buhoma.

NOTE: Days 13 and 14 may be reversed depending on space availability for gorilla permits

Day 13: We’ll walk the Buhoma trail for the entire day. This is a particularly beautiful piece of forest in the valley, and our walking is on a mainly flat and well-maintained broad path. Species we’ll hope to encounter include Bar-tailed Trogon, rarely seen Oberlander’s Ground-Thrush, White-bellied Robin-Chat, Red-throated Alethe, White-bellied Crested-Flycatcher, Bocage’s Bushshrike, Northern Double-collared Sunbird, Black-billed Weaver, and Magpie Mannikin. High exposed perches are favored by the dazzling Black Bee-eater, Blue-throated Roller, Sooty Flycatcher, and forest starlings including Waller’s, Stuhlmann’s and Narrow-tailed, while the tiny, vocal and highly secretive Neumann’s Warbler is buried in the undergrowth! Other understory birds could include African Broadbill, Banded Prinia, and the surprisingly bright male Black-faced Rufous-Warbler. The mid-story and canopy support Elliot’s and Fine-banded Woodpeckers, Cabanis’s, Shelley’s, and Ansorge’s Greenbuls, the strange Grauer’s Warbler, and White-browed Crombec. The tiny Jameson’s Antpecker can be found at any level, probing under moss on dead branches or gleaning warbler-like in the canopy. Overhead, Scarce Swift forages over the forest. Other wildlife that we may be fortunate enough to find includes the huge yellow-backed duiker antelope, Guereza colobus, L’Hoest’s, blue and red-tailed monkeys, as well as chimpanzees. We’ll also no doubt find several species of squirrel, including fire-footed rope, Carruther’s’ mountain and Ruwenzori sun. Both the exceptional birding and the sightings of exotic mammals make visiting Buhoma truly memorable. Night in Buhoma.

Day 14: Today is devoted to an optional but unforgettable trek to see Eastern Mountain Gorillas in their mountain refuge (see * below). This adventure could take anywhere from three to six hours in the field, depending on where the gorillas are located. We’ll leave the lodge early to reach the park’s Registration Center, where the trek will start after introductions and a briefing from the guide on what to expect and how to act in the presence of the gorillas. Viewing the gorillas is a profound experience, but because the trek may be too difficult for some participants, we are leaving it as an optional activity, not included in the tour price. For those who opt not to take the trek, there will be a birding excursion into the adjacent forest with a picnic lunch. Later in the day we’ll return to Gorilla Forest Camp for some optional leisurely birding. Night near Buhoma.

Day 15: We’ll start the uphill drive to Ruhija. Although it is not a long way, we’ll spend the entire day on this route to take advantage of the superb birding. In scrubby areas beyond Buhoma, we’ll search for Ross’s Turaco; Red-throated Wryneck; Brown-backed Scrub-Robin, as well as Bronze, Copper and Variable Sunbirds, Black-necked and Holub’s Golden Weavers; Yellow Bishop and Black-throated Seed-eater. Further along the road, we’ll pass through Kitahurira, or “The Neck,” another well-known birding site. Here we’ll search for the likes of Western Bronze-naped Pigeon, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, Willcox’s Honeyguide, Petit’s Cuckoo-shrike, Chapin’s Flycatcher, Mountain Wagtail, Pink-footed Puffback, and the rare Tiny Sunbird. Even further up the road, cultivated areas provide feeding opportunities for many seedeaters, which will hopefully include Dusky Twinspot and Yellow-bellied and Black-crowned Waxbills. African Stonechat, Thick-billed Seedeater and Yellow-crowned Canary may also be found. We’ll also seek out the noisy Chubb’s Cisticola providing cheerful song from deep within the bracken, the stunning Doherty’s Bushshrike appearing from the dense vegetation, and Mackinnon’s Shrike surveying the road from high, exposed perches. Night in Ruhija.

Day 16: We’ll undertake a full day of walking along the road at Ruhija. At this altitude the vegetation is quite different from what we experienced in Buhoma and will now include giant heather, giant lobelia, and extensive bracken. Bird species that we’ll hope to see here include Black-billed Turaco, Barred Long-tailed Cuckoo, Western Green Tinkerbird, Olive Woodpecker, Dwarf Honeyguide, Eastern Mountain and the wing-waving Yellow-streaked Greenbuls, Archer’s Robin-Chat, Stripe-breasted Tit, Mountain Illadopsis and the beautifully voiced Grey-chested Illadopsis—now renamed Grey-chested Kakamega, as it is not an Illadopsis after all. In addition, we’ll hope to spot African Hill Babbler (the local form often treated as a full species, Rwenzori Hill Babbler), Mountain Masked, Rwenzori, and Chestnut-throated Apalises, all noisy and active, Red-faced Woodland-Warbler, Yellow-eyed Black-Flycatcher, Rwenzori Batis, Mountain Sooty Boubou, the rare Lagden’s Bushshrike, Strange Weaver and Oriole Finch. Flowering symphonia trees attract the glorious Purple-breasted Sunbird, as well as Blue-headed and Regal Sunbird—all three being breathtakingly gorgeous Albertine Rift endemics. Dusky and Red-faced Crimsonwings—amongst the most striking and sought-after of African seedeaters—will also be possible. At night we’ll set out to search for Rwenzori Nightjar and African Wood-Owl. Night in Ruhija.

Day 17: We’ll set off for the steep descent to Mubwindi Swamp and the seemingly steeper ascent back the same way! This will be our only chance to encounter the exceedingly rare and amazingly cryptic African Green Broadbill, which lives near the bottom of the trail close to the swamp. Because of the steep trail, walking sticks are recommended.  The option of borrowing walking sticks and of hiring porters to carry everything other than binoculars and cameras will be available. This will be another all-day excursion, and it will hopefully give us an opportunity to observe another Albertine Rift endemic, the Grauer’s Rush Warbler that inhabits the swamp vegetation here. Night in Ruhija.

Day 18: Our destination is Lake Mburo. On our way out of the forest, we’ll of course be on the lookout for any missed species, as we pass through the bamboo zone. These may include Handsome Francolin, Cinnamon Bracken-Warbler, Mountain Yellow Warbler, and possibly the highland Kandt’s Waxbill. As we head eastward, the birds en route will now be familiar, but it won’t stop us from looking in any interesting habitat. In the afternoon we’ll arrive at Lake Mburo National Park where the birding will be in open savanna and scrubby forest. Night in Lake Mburo.

Day 19: Lake Mburo National Park is a superb wetland and Acacia savanna sanctuary that hosts many sought-after species. Raptor watching will be a major feature of our day. Potential sightings include African Marsh-Harrier, enormous Lappet-faced and White-headed Vultures, and the trio of Brown, Banded, and Beaudouin’s Snake-eagles. Lake Mburo’s woodlands are the northernmost example of the southern savanna system and are home to several species at the edge of their range. The most sought-after of these is the elusive Red-faced Barbet, known only in remote northeastern Rwanda and here. We’ll also search for Coqui Francolin, Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove which in Uganda is restricted to this region, Levaillant’s, Klaas’s and Dideric Cuckoos, Lilac-breasted Roller, Green Woodhoopoe, Common Scimitar-bill, Nubian and Bearded Woodpeckers, several swallows, including Lesser Striped, Rufous-chested, Mosque and White-headed Saw-wing, White-browed Scrub-Robin, Rattling and Tabora Cisticolas, Yellow-billed Oxpecker, African Penduline-Tit, the noisy Arrow-marked Babbler, Wattled and Greater Blue-eared Starlings, and Red-headed Weaver. On our afternoon boat excursion on the lake, we’ll have a good chance to see the much-desired African Finfoot and possibly the White-backed Night-Heron. Mammals that we’ll hope to encounter are foraging groups of banded and dwarf mongooses, common zebra, impala, eland, bushbuck, oribi, hippopotamus, and common warthog, In the evening we’ll look for nightjars, with the options being the bizarre Pennant-winged, or the more standard Black-shouldered, Square-tailed, Swamp and Freckled. Night in Lake Mburo.

Day 20: We’ll depart for a final chance to enjoy Lake Mburo before settling in for the drive back to the city of Entebbe. Hopefully we’ll spot a few more species that we may not yet have encountered. In the afternoon we’ll arrive in Entebbe where we’ll have day rooms for repacking and showering then an evening meal before we catch our flights home. The tour concludes this evening in Entebbe.

2024 Narrative

IN BRIEF:The year 2024 will be remembered in the history books on East Africa as the year of extraordinary weather. Kenya has borne the brunt of the phenomena and in Nairobi where I live, we had received over 55 inches of rain this year up to June, easily a local record never experienced in forty years of daily record keeping. Since the ravages of Covid, Uganda appeared to be fully recovered and was back to a business as usual, although the hotels and lodges were not full and in others we were the only clients, though all accommodations visited on the 2024 tour were in a superb state and many still improving their product to high standards. We were well cared for and comfortable in all of our lodging, and serviced by very professional and caring staff. Much of the country has not changed much but some places have degraded with so much of the former Lake Mburu National Park being annexed and handed over to individuals for livestock and crop farming, and the sorry sight of the Busingiro section of Budongo National Forest being irreversibly destroyed by ambitious road “improvements.”  Whilst throughout the region we visited, any forest not part of the National Park or Forests protection has either gone or has little chance of surviving. The National Parks at least have demonstrated their dedication to protecting the environment. It is so encouraging that in every corner we visited, there are guides eager to share their vast knowledge of the regional avifauna, and that thanks to these people they are able to provide the visitor with sightings of species that the visitor would not be able to obtain without their assistance. Those that have retired have passed their knowledge on to the next generation of conservationists.

The 2024 group arrived to experience the environment and unique wildlife of Uganda, and consisted entirely of eight American residents, opting to visit Uganda for a bird and mammal tour of just under three weeks in the coolest months of June and July, and experience the superb birding and wildlife viewing it has to offer together with the outgoing hospitality of the people.

IN DETAIL: All participants arrived one day earlier than the official start of the tour, and with the availability of all three leaders on the rest day, it enabled an extra morning in the environs of Entebbe, with an early stroll in the Entebbe Botanical Gardens, and an afternoon walk from the  Jet Hotel where we were staying. As casual as this extra day was, it still netted species not recorded on the main tour with Bat Hawk, Blue-breasted and White-throated Bee-eaters, Black Cuckoo-shrike and Orange Weaver. With over 90 species “under our belt,” we were all refreshed to start the official tour the following day.

The first venture was to Mbwamba Wetlands to the west of the Entebbe Peninsula. As we set off the gloomy start to the day got darker and darker and we were soon in a downpour rapidly flooding the dirt road we were on. On arrival at Mbwamba the rains persisted as we waited in the vehicles for the downpour and thunderstorms to subside. After an hour it did lighten up and we ventured out and into the three boats in the still persistent rain. Soon we located a very showy Shoebill which was quite flighty but only for short distances, which enabled the wet participants to fully appreciated both the size and wing-area of the bird. It posed nicely for photos and as the rain had not abated and we were all saturated, the vote was to return without searching out other swamp species in these unfavourable conditions. We were anxious that this weather was not going to upset the birding plans all through the tour, but we need not have worried as we did not see another drop of rain until we arrived back in Entebbe at the end of the tour!

By the time we arrived at our lunch stop in Kampala, our clothing was already nearly dry. We were now ready to undertake the long drive to Masindi on smooth paved roads. It might be mentioned here that all major connecting roads we travelled were paved, with the exception of the SW corner detour to the Bwindi-Impenetrable Forest via the main north-south road through Queen Elizabeth NP which is still dirt but well maintained. We saw so much during the tour that I know as I write this that I will be thinking “Oh! I had better mention this,” and making numerous insertions throughout. In the twenty days we recorded 531 species (as last year), of which 27 were “heard only” birds, the rest were all seen by most members of the group, but as with all deep forest birding it was easy to miss something that appears fleetingly. Paul, Sam and the local guides were unerring in their use of the laser pointer and many birds would have been missed were it not for this and their amazing eyesight. In addition, Paul was also the organizer, trouble-shooter, driver, and resident guide for this incredible trip.

On our way to Masindi we had many nice sightings including Western Banded Snake-Eagle, Levaillant’s Cuckoo and the very local Hartlaub’s Marsh Widowbird. We spent a comfortable night in the Masindi Hotel, famed for being the oldest established hotel in Uganda. The next day saw us leaving for Kaniyo Pabidi for a stop for the so very local Puvel’s Illadopsis which never showed itself or even uttered a word, when in the past it used to climb openly into leafless scrub for a better view of the visitor! As every birder visiting Uganda searches for the same individuals, it’s not surprising that the birds treat people with indifference! Before arrival in the fields of crops, we picked up our first White-tailed Hornbills in roadside trees, Black, Black-winged Red and Northern Red Bishops, the all-blackish race concolor of Red-collared Widowbird which has no trace of red whatsoever, Compact Weavers, and the scarcer Grey-headed Oliveback. This was but a fraction of the different seed-eating species enjoying this cultivation.

Whilst going through the formalities of entering Kabalega (formally Murchison Falls) National Park we were entertained by few very colourful velvety-black and red Finch’s Agamas.  These are called Brian Finch’s Agama in the East African Reptile Field-Guide, which is a bit over-the-top but it is a most endearing and confiding lizard and we were to see many more at our lodge during our stay by the Nile. Kabalega Wilderness Lodge is beautifully located on the bank and their individual cabins with surrounding bushland, extremely comfortable. The group opted to have a quiet time in the afternoon and each relaxed in their own private garden. Last year I found a family of extremely rarely recorded Dusky Babblers, and I very soon relocated them although they remained very shy and frustrating to get good views of, and few of the group subsequently managed to get satisfactory views of them as they skulked inside the very thick bush cover.

The following morning we left for our full day exploring the north side of the National Park. An impressive bridge now spans the river that used to require a ferry service to traverse the mighty Nile. The elevation now gave good views of a variety of marsh species on the northern side, and after “soaring” over the waters to the other side, we had an incredible day’s birding and mammal viewing. How to select just a few interesting species out of all that we saw, ranging from the majestic Abyssinian Ground Hornbills and Denham’s Bustard to the miniscule and modest Foxy Cisticola.  For elegance it was hard to top the Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters, whilst for outrageous coloration it was hard to look past the Red-throated Bee-eaters. In the afternoon we had a private boat taking us down to the foot of Murchison Falls. On this same tour in 2021, we were shocked by the drowned forest lining the river towards the foot of the falls, and how the skeletal drowned trees were a depressing sight, but now with the continuation of the fall in the water level, new growth is appearing amongst the tree carcasses, the Pied Kingfisher and Red-throated Bee-eater breeding cliffs are once again above the water and being utilised. So the mysterious rising waters of the Albertine Rift lakes inclusive of Lake Victoria basin, are slowly releasing some of the stolen shoreline. From our boat we had excellent views of Murchison Falls bursting over its narrow outlet, crashing through the less than ten-metre-wide gap. After our boat excursion we returned back to the lodge for a very welcome dinner.

Farewelling Kabalega National Park next morning we set off for the Butiaba Escarpment seeing a variety of good birds on the way. It was a rich journey with scattered interesting species, and it was good to see that the people of the inundated Butiaba peninsula had returned to their fishing village and living on dry land once more. In the heat of the day we birded the escarpment area, but birds decided not to co-operate and we felt a bit unrewarded for the effort. It was however horrific to see the damage that the widening of the road in the Busingiro side of Budongo Forest had caused although we did find hyperactive Ituri Batis amongst a few other interesting species before continuing on to Masindi and back to the comfort of the hotel once again. The serious forest birding would start tomorrow…. and it did!

Leaving the Hotel after an early breakfast (all breakfasts were early), we looked at a few things along the way and met up with our resident guide well before the forest for a look in the cultivation. Whilst walking through the tracks around various crop species we had an amazing time with the variety of estrildid finches. Highlights were views of secretive Brown Twinspots and dazzling Orange-breasted Waxbills. Other birds here included cheerful Dark-capped Yellow Warblers which now bizarrely finds itself in the same genus as European formerly Hippolais Warblers, and after searching we finally located Cabanis’s Bunting, but it stayed a distant voice and would not cooperate. Sadly following on from the local extinction of Brown-rumped Bunting, this bunting might also be heading in the same direction. The Royal Mile was very rewarding but required a considerable amount of effort to see many of the locations well hidden species, successes numbered excellent views of Dwarf, Chocolate-backed and Blue-breasted Kingfishers, and whilst only at the start of our adventure were the 8^th, 9^th and 10^th Kingfisher species already for the tour, and the eleventh would be posing for us in the afternoon in the form of Shining-blue Kingfisher. Royal Mile is a broad avenue of extremely high trees that bisects the forest, and there is a regular grid of very narrow paths alongside for the use of the Chimpanzee researchers, but not for birders. This was a typical high-forest birding day in equatorial Africa, meaning that the day starts with many birds calling that remain unseen and it is only through perseverance that the list of desired birds is slowly whittled away, and we did very well with the additional specialities of the area such as Willcock’s Honeyguide, Chestnut-capped Flycatcher, Spotted Greenbul, Brown-crowned Eremomelas, Uganda Woodland Warbler, Lemon-bellied Crombec, Grey Longbill, and a host more.

The following day was another visit to “The Royal Mile,” searching out species that were not performing yesterday, and again we were well rewarded with highlights such as Eastern Pied and White-tailed Hornbills, nice views of a posing Dusky Long-tailed Cuckoo and equally obliging Blue-throated Roller.

After our final night at Masindi Hotel we started our journey southwards with a few stops and rewards en route to Hoima, and after a lunch stop, arriving in the afternoon at the highest parts of Kibale Forest north of Fort Portal. Here we saw our only Forest Elephant of the trip, although later there would be many signs of their local presence in Kibale and the Bwindi/Impenetrable Forests, but elsewhere all elephants were the now separated Savannah Elephant. The trip’s only Lowland Masked Apalis was cooperative, but the star here was a single Dark-backed (Forest) Weaver which appears as inexplicably rare in Uganda, whilst a common sight in coastal and western Kenya and Tanzania. It was the first recorded on a Wings tour in Uganda! Its’ west Uganda distribution confines it to the Rwenzoris, extending to this highest part of Kibale forest, other than this the Kenya population just extends into Mt Elgon in the extreme east.

Our accommodation in Kibale was the very attractive and comfortable Chimpanzee Forest Lodge with well-spaced very well-appointed bungalows offering individual privacy and excellent meals. From this base we explored the local area, keeping our appointment pre-dawn the first morning listening to the Green-breasted Pitta, but the only sign of its existence on this occasion was two calls in a half-hearted response the guide’s playback. The rangers worked extremely hard to find the birds, but sadly it was not going to co-operate.

We had an amazing Chimpanzee experience in the afternoon, being surrounded by terrestrial chimps of all ages, it was like we were part of their group, and they were on a human trek to see us! Like all thick forests birding had its frustrations and many species were loath to show themselves. However we did encounter a few nice mixed parties, and a highlight was the Bigodi swamp walk, where we completely circumnavigated the swamp. Red Colobus and Grey-cheeked Mangabeys put on a fine show whilst birds included a number of barbet species, an excavating Brown-eared Woodpecker at eye-level and parties of the local Magpie Mannikins. Departing Kibale, we continued southwards, and arriving on the edge of Queen Elizabeth NP, found our most extraordinary raptor for the trip, with an adult Lesser Spotted Eagle very much at the wrong time of year!

We stayed at Mweya Safari Lodge on the Kazinga Channel, which links small Lake George to extensive Lake Edward. Sitting in the illuminated dining room having our dinner in comfort, the well-lit windows were attracting moths. In the reception area we were immediately introduced to the  Swamp Flycatchers that have long adapted to a nocturnal life-style, and chase insects attracted by the chandelier lights, using them as perches from which to launch out, or seatbacks if they are unoccupied. It’s hard to believe that they obtain more food from a lit interior at night than they would from the daylight exterior, but obviously it is worth the switch in their working hours.

The next morning after a healthy breakfast, we set off for our busy birding morning finding many highlights making the drive worthwhile. So many new species came thick and fast, and up to now our only Lark species had been Flappet, but here we added Rufous-naped, White-tailed and Red-capped as well as views of African Crakes, and close encounters with Temminck’s Coursers and Collared Pratincoles. A few new Cisticola species also added to the variety amongst an assortment of grassland birds. There were a few gatherings of scavenging vultures in the Uganda Kob lekking grounds, incorporating all five species, together with Tawny Eagles and Bateleurs.

After returning for lunch, we left in the afternoon for a private boat trip on the adjacent Kazinga Channel, which links Lake George to Lake Edward. There was a large flock of habituated African Skimmers that put on a fine display, as well as a good selection of waterside birds, that included four Red-throated Bee-eaters, a little further south than the usual range. Everything allowed a very close approach, including the Hippos and Savanna Elephants. The prize mammal species went to a trio of Giant Forest Hog. A surprise was either an extremely early or extremely late Sand Martin, but it was likely one that decided not to return with the rest of its kind. The lodge’s  excellent meal was followed by the list with attendant flycatchers.

Following a full breakfast, we departed Mweya, birding our way out and finding new additions to our swelling list, but a stop near the Kazinga Bridge whilst producing a stunning Papyrus Gonolek, failed to provide sightings of White-winged Warbler in spite of much effort. Just after turning on to the unpaved Ishasha Road, we found a party of three Crested Barbets. This would have been a major surprise had we not photographed a bird from our Kazinga boat trip the previous year. From being confined to the Lake Mburo area, it is now making inroads northwards.  After a picnic lunch at the Ishasha Gate, we started our climb towards Buhoma and our new home of Haven Lodge, high on the hill above the Buhoma Valley. The group were shown their comfortable cottages, and found a few new birds from the balconies. The evening meal was very tasty and after the long drive a good nights sleep followed to prepare for the adventures of the next day.

In the morning five intrepids departed for the excitement of a Gorilla Trek. Whilst this was taking place, the remaining three visitors embarked on a birding walk close to Buhoma, accompanied by the local bird guide, Nicolas. All of the Gorilla Trekkers safely arrived at their allotted family group and had the experience of a lifetime with the gentle giants, and were back in the early afternoon, still hyped by the experience and sharing their stories.

The next day was spent entirely in the Buhoma Forest with Nicolas leading the way, with lunch being brought to us on foot by staff from Haven. It was a very long day starting after an early breakfast and arriving back in the evening, having had a day full of exciting birding with largely Albertine endemics such as Red-throated Alethe, White-bellied Robin-Chat, Red-faced Woodland Warbler, Neumann’s Warbler, Willard’s Sooty Boubou, Blue-headed Sunbird, and local specialities such as Black Bee-eater, Ansorge’s Greenbul,  Chapin’s Flycatcher, and Tiny Sunbird. Endemic mammals included l’Hoest’s Monkey, Rwenzori Red Duiker and Carruther’s Squirrel.

It was time to farewell Buhoma and climb the mountains to the highlands of Ruhija. This area holds a large swathe of Albertine endemics not found in the lower forests. The all dirt road was extremely dusty as the region had not seen rain in over a month, which is extraordinary for here. The road surface was like talcum powder and hung in the air from the smallest disturbance. The resident birds were reacting to this with many of the skulkiest species being totally silent and non-responsive. There were no large aggregations of mixed species as found in normal conditions and species had to be searched for singly. The “Neck” was extremely quiet and it was difficult to unearth desired species, but persistence throughout our time in the highlands did reward us. Our residence now was Bakiga Lodge, which is a community project development to assist the local people by providing readily accessible and safe drinking water. It was quite an amazing place, the cabins on stilts on a very steep slope, with a faraway vista. We stayed for three nights. After checking into our rooms we had an optional first look along the School Road with Amos our local bird guide for this area. The first of a number of local specialities such as Stripe-breasted Tit, Mountain Masked, and Rwenzori Apalises, Grauer’s Warbler, Regal Sunbird and Strange Weaver soon revealed themselves, but the prize here went to the prolonged views of four Rwenzori Nightjars sitting together on the road at dusk, providing extraordinary views of the species. Presumably this was a family.

The group was going to divide again today, as it was the quite tiring walk downhill to Ruhija Swamp, and the twice (thrice?) as tiring uphill climb afterwards! This group was heading off with Amos and had a very successful day with the main target being African Green Broadbill and saw four adult individuals in two territories. During the walk they also had Handsome Francolin, Archer’s Robin-Chat, Yellow-eyed Black Flycatcher, Grauer’s Rush Warbler, White-bellied Crested Flycatcher, and Dusky Crimsonwing, but only heard Albertine Sooty Boubou. Whilst the group that remained aloft additionally found Western Green Tinkerbird and both groups catching up with Rwenzori Batis.

The next day we all returned to the School Road, but continued all the way to the bottom of the valley, at the swamp we were entertained by no less than six African Water Rails, though no sign of Red-chested Flufftails. Highland Rush Warbler was new for the tour and it was very pleasant sitting on a bank above the swamp and seeing a constant coming and going of open country birds, but then we had to walk back uphill, finding a couple of the endemic Rwenzori Three-horned Chameleons on the way. That afternoon we searched in vain for Dusky Twinspot in the area where we had had the extravert bird the previous year, but the habitat had been drastically “modified” and no sign of the birds or even any consolation prizes, in fact a major “booby” prize awaited us as the second car broke a shaft coming back up the hill and we had to all fit into the first car whilst Paul and Sam spent time arranging for a temporary replacement vehicle from Kabale and also a mechanic to fix the damaged individual now successfully towed back to the lodge. It was a masterpiece in troubleshooting, the replacement car was ready for us the next morning to continue our way, in the meantime the damaged car was repaired and we had a happy rendezvous with it in a Kabale petrol station, where we transferred the luggage and it was business as usual!

We arrived at our next destination of Lake Mburu NP in the evening, staying at Rwakobo Lodge, built on a boulder hill (kopje) overlooking the plains. Another superb and very comfortable accommodation with very professional staff and an excellent array of comestibles coming out of their kitchen! The next morning after an early breakfast, we set off on a bird and game drive. The birds were quite different from anywhere else in Uganda that we had visited. Apart from the many mammals including species like Rothschild’s Giraffe, Eland, Impala, and Topi, the birds were largely species associated with the Maasai Mara and parts of Lake Victoria in Kenya. However amongst these species were a few specialities. On the drive we found Emerald-spotted Wood and Namaqua Doves, Bare-faced Go-Away Bird, Pearl-spotted Owlets, Lilac-breasted Roller, Black-collared Barbet, Bearded Woodpecker, Southern Black Flycatcher, Tabora Cisticola, Dark-eyed Black Tit, Brubru, Marico and Purple-banded Sunbirds and Green-winged Pytilia.

Returning for a delicious lunch we set off again in the afternoon for our boat trip on the lake. This rewarded us with five Finfoots (not Finfeet!), but as we searched for the very desirable White-backed Night-Herons the guide said he had not seen any at all since the young fledged two weeks previously, which was a bit depressing. Nevertheless we searched and diligence paid off as a participant spotted some shadows in a live low tree and we closed in on them. They were initially very difficult to make out, but what can only be termed as expertise shuttling the captain maneuvered the two-storey vessel into the most favourable angle for which to see the two young birds. The boat trip did not disappoint, the other bird of interest was a small raptor that flew in front of the sun and was unidentifiable. But one participant managed to get off a series of shots in which the pattern stood out like a sorje thumb and was clearly a Cuckoo-Hawk! On the way back we stopped at a lodge that was often a good place for the rare and incredibly local Red-faced Barbet, and although we had a lengthy walk seeing the horrors of a raging bush-fire that had consumed all of the bushland surrounding the lodge, stopping literally metres from their tents. But no barbet.

The day was not over, and on the return the plan was to look for nightjars in the plain we always visit after the boat. As the sun disappeared, the birds emerged and a few were “singing” happily and in the space of twenty minutes we had see several outlandish Pennant-wings, Black-shouldered, Swamp and Square-tailed Nightjars. This brought the days total to five nightjars as the guard at the lodge had shown us a roosting Slender-tailed next to one of the rooms which posed for numerous photographs. To round off the evening we found a Verreaux’s Eagle Owl on the return.

After the next morning we rose refreshed and after a good breakfast farewelled the staff who had taken such good care of us, but Paul was not giving up with the Barbet! Sam drove both cars down to the main road at the base of the hill where he waited whilst we birded our way with Paul, down the hill. We arrived towards the bottom of the hill when Sam screamed alarm, a Red-faced Barbet had landed in a solitary tree next to where he was parked. It was a confiding bird and a great relief to see, but the red face was glowing against its otherwise black plumage. That was a real skin of teeth barbet!

Our goal now was Entebbe, and whilst we birded our way back to the main highway, the only stops were at a swamp where there was a very distant Rufous-bellied Heron, our picnic lunch and of course the traditional Equator photographs! We arrived at the Papyrus Lodge in Entebbe and had a farewell dinner with the resident African Wood Owl, the final bird for the trip. Three of the group were leaving that evening and the remainder the following day at different times.

First thanks have to go to such a compatible and game group, with some long days, a number of lengthy journeys, early starts and quite a bit of walking not always on flat terrain.

Major parts of the group were Paul and Sam who safely guided us around the country, and in so many cases guided us to the birds, as well as handling the administration expertly.

Next thanks go to all the local guides, all of which were not only experts in their home territories, but showed such eagerness and skill in ensuring that all participants had the best views possible of all that was there to be seen.

But it took more people than that to make this tour so successful and a boundless thanks must also go to all of the staff in the lodges, who showed so much hospitality and professionalism ensuring that the pleasures of our brief stays were maximised, and this applied to every location we visited.

                                                                                                                                                                                    -          Brian Finch

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